Dormancy issues with Amorph's

From: lungfish2000 at hotmail.com (Clive Lundquist) on 2007.08.03 at 10:21:09(16058) An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/private/aroid-l/attachments/20070803/b3020795/attachment-0001.htm

From: plantguy at zoominternet.net (Daniel Devor) on 2007.08.03 at 19:55:48(16061) Hi Clive, I find the exact same thing on most all of my species except konjac of course. If ones like bulbifer, longitberosus, thaiensis, atroviridis, albus, macrorhizus, yunnanensis, etc. flower I have no chance they will grow this summer and so I have found the easiest way to deal with the problem is sell the silly tuber on ebay and be done with it :o) I've been having this problem for 10 years now so it is not an isolated incident with mine. I too find the influorescences to all be a bit too much the same anymore and would rather just have the petiole and leaf so if hacking the influorescence before it grows too much will allow me to get leaves in the summer as usual I am more than happy to sacrifice the influorescence. I'm guessing this is not something most people try as they grow them for the influorescence, but I hope that someone can give us an answer and if not perhaps next spring I will just cut my influorescences off before they develop too far and see what happens!! I actually dread that some of my favorite petiole species like cruddassianus and mossambicensis will flower as then I will be in the quandry of keeping them for another entire year dormant before I can get a leaf after they just spent a lot of energy flowering. Hopefully others without a GH living in atleast zone 6 or colder (sorry, but zone 7 and warmer is just not the same because your seasons are sooooooo much longer) can help us out. Thanks in advance to everyone, Dan +More Dan Devor Gibsonia, PA where it is extemely hot and humid for us!! ----- Original Message ----- From: Clive Lundquist To: aroid-l at gizmoworks.com Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 6:21 AM Subject: [Aroid-l] Dormancy issues with Amorph's Hi all, I was wondering if anyone has any advice for those of us who grow Amorphophallus in colder climates like the UK without greenhouses. Its the flowering of A. bulbifer, in particular, that causes issues - the new leaf starts growing late in the autumn after it's flowered in the spring; there's no hope for it, and this makes its next years growth a bit puny. I don't mind loosing the flowers - i like the big fat stems and leaves. Does de-flowering help (!)?.... Cheers for any ideas, Clive Lundquist PS i have some fresh seed of Arum palaestinum if anybody wants - mail me privately if you'd like it. I can't guarantee its viable though as it wasn't pollinated... but it looks ok. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Got a favourite clothes shop, bar or restaurant? Share your local knowledge with BackOfMyHand.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L at www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/private/aroid-l/attachments/20070803/1136875a/attachment.htm

From: ken at spatulacity.com (Ken Mosher) on 2007.08.03 at 23:07:42(16071) Hi Clive, I deflower my Am. konjacs every spring - lending credence to the old saying, "In Spring a young man's fancy turns to love." And I'm sure that Lord P would heartily endorse the deflowering of Amorphophalli at every opportunity; but of course he's a Dutchman, which explains a lot ;) More to the matter at hand, I understand exactly what you're going through. I encounter the same inconvenience here in the Northeast USA even *with* my greenhouse. I have not found, in my own personal experience, that cutting off the developing inflorescence of a konjac makes it break dormancy any earlier than if I had let it flower. I await the experiences of others to confirm or refute. -Ken +More -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: "Clive Lundquist" Subject: [Aroid-l] Dormancy issues with Amorph's Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 15:33:11 +0000 Size: 1727 Url: http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/private/aroid-l/attachments/20070803/22d3c0e5/attachment-0001.eml

From: hetter at xs4all.nl (Wilbert Hetterscheid) on 2007.08.10 at 14:28:52(16082) People cutting off inflorescences? People liking Amorphophallus-leaves better than inflorescences? WHAT IS THIS WORLD COMING TO??????? Haven't I been writing my butt off about Amorphophallus ID's for years and thereby always telling people to watch the inflorescences???? And now people start cutting them off?????????????? Because they fear they;ll get no leaves????????? Holy cr.. !! Moderator, please erase me from membership of this perverted group.............. +More Yours ever, Lord P(anicking). > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: aroid-l-bounces at gizmoworks.com > [mailto:aroid-l-bounces at gizmoworks.com] Namens Daniel Devor > Verzonden: vrijdag 3 augustus 2007 21:56 > Aan: Discussion of aroids > Onderwerp: Re: [Aroid-l] Dormancy issues with Amorph's > > Hi Clive, > > I find the exact same thing on most all of my species except > konjac of course. If ones like bulbifer, longitberosus, > thaiensis, atroviridis, albus, macrorhizus, yunnanensis, etc. > flower I have no chance they will grow this summer and so I > have found the easiest way to deal with the problem is sell > the silly tuber on ebay and be done with it :o) I've been > having this problem for 10 years now so it is not an isolated > incident with mine. > > I too find the influorescences to all be a bit too much the > same anymore and would rather just have the petiole and leaf > so if hacking the influorescence before it grows too much > will allow me to get leaves in the summer as usual I am more > than happy to sacrifice the influorescence. I'm guessing > this is not something most people try as they grow them for > the influorescence, but I hope that someone can give us an > answer and if not perhaps next spring I will just cut my > influorescences off before they develop too far and see what happens!! > > I actually dread that some of my favorite petiole species > like cruddassianus and mossambicensis will flower as then I > will be in the quandry of keeping them for another entire > year dormant before I can get a leaf after they just spent a > lot of energy flowering. > > Hopefully others without a GH living in atleast zone 6 or > colder (sorry, but zone 7 and warmer is just not the same > because your seasons are sooooooo much longer) can help us out. > > Thanks in advance to everyone, > > Dan > > Dan Devor > Gibsonia, PA where it is extemely hot and humid for us!! > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Clive Lundquist > To: aroid-l at gizmoworks.com > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 6:21 AM > Subject: [Aroid-l] Dormancy issues with Amorph's > > Hi all, > > I was wondering if anyone has any advice for those of > us who grow Amorphophallus in colder climates like the UK > without greenhouses. > > Its the flowering of A. bulbifer, in particular, that > causes issues - the new leaf starts growing late in the > autumn after it's flowered in the spring; there's no hope for > it, and this makes its next years growth a bit puny. > > I don't mind loosing the flowers - i like the big fat > stems and leaves. > > Does de-flowering help (!)?.... > > Cheers for any ideas, > > Clive Lundquist > > PS i have some fresh seed of Arum palaestinum if > anybody wants - mail me privately if you'd like it. I can't > guarantee its viable though as it wasn't pollinated... but it > looks ok. > > ________________________________ > > Got a favourite clothes shop, bar or restaurant? Share > your local knowledge with BackOfMyHand.com > > > > ________________________________ > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L at www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l > > >

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