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On Wed, Nov 26, 2014 at 1:52 AM, derek burch wrote:
Definitely keep thinking of Fluoride in
your city water. It has ruined many crops of the leafy aroids for nurserymen all
over the place. And the person who mentioned the raising pH to help the
situation is definitely right. I used to find in nurseries that the plants that
remained in one size pot would show symptoms as the media gradually acidified.
Derek
From:
aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Theodore Held
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014
12:42 PM
To: Discussion of aroids
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] leaf burn
causes?
Ferenc,
I am probably not the best person to answer your inquiry. But seeing no
responses as yet, maybe my words will induce the more knowledgeable members to
chime in.
I stopped my Spathes from experiencing leaf tip burn by taking the
advice of the late Steve Lucas who indicated to me that he grew his in an
almost swamp-like aquatic planting, with the roots continuously wet (that is,
soaking in a puddle of standing water). Once I tried his technique all my new
leaves stopped having tip burn and they continue to be fully green to this day
(five years now). My water is pretty good, being relatively low in conductivity
and moderately alkaline pH (in accord with desired municipal practice). I do
not fuss with mixtures with DI water or trying to modify the pH.
One factor you might consider would be the relative humidity of the
surrounding air. Assuming that wet feet would not be desired for many species,
having a low relative humidity might put stress on leaf tips on those varieties
with more normal water likes. This might also account for your seeming success
at work with problems at home. Just a suggestion.
I also grow Anubias, but mainly in a submerged state. I never have any
sign of abnormal necrosis with these. When I have grown them with leaves
emergent I have also never had and tip burn or abnormal necrosis. This one is a
mystery to me. I also would not exclude the possibility of disease.
Other factors that might be in play are those involved with
horticulture taken as a whole: light level, air movement, temperature,
environmental variables such as day-night fluctuations. My advice would be to
take notes on anything you might think about and compare the environment where
you are successful to where you are not.
Ted Held
Detroit.
On Sun, Nov 9, 2014 at 2:40 PM, Ferenc Lengyel
wrote:
Dear Aroiders,
I know that this
question is not aroid specific but I know no other forums where I could ask it
(and it incudes aroids).
Does anybody know
what physiological difference might cause leaf tip in some aroids, but not in
others? I have some Philodendrons,
a Dieffenbachia cultivar, two
different Syngoniums, a Spathiphyllum cultivar, Epipremnum aureum, an Aglaonema and Monstera deliciosa (I had another Monstera with small leaves, but it has died). Of these
genera, Monstera, Spathiphyllum and Epipremnum aureum shows leaf tip burn (the
tip of the leaves becomes necrotic) followed by necrosis of the whole leaf. Monstera deliciosa is a hard plant to
kill, but here in my appartment it can not develop normally, the leaves become
necrotic. It applies to Epipremnum aureum,
another easy houseplant too. The same might be the situation with Spathiphyllum, but I bought it recently
and I mainly watered it with deionized water. Lately I gave it tap water and it
started to exhibit leaf tip burn too. I had another Monstera which has perished after necrosis of all of its
leaves. On the other hand my Philodendrons,
Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema and Syngoniums are not affected at all.
In my aquarium I
had Anubias plants which suffered
from nercosis of their leaves too. They perished (I used 1:1 mixture of tap
water and deionized water).
My non-aroid
plants suffering from leaf tip burn include Dracaenea
fragrans (necrosis is limited to leaf tips) and Chlorophytums. I have Chlorophytum comosum (again a plant nearly
impossible to kill) and a Chlorophytum
orchidastrum cultivar (’fireflash’). Both suffer of severe necrosis
and loose all of their leaves and die when watered with tap water. When I water
Chlorophytum with deionized water
(once a month or so with citric acid dissolved in it to lower pH) my Chlorophytums do much better. It is
interesting as I read that Chlorophytum
comosum is sensitive to fluoride and raising the pH of the water
(that is the opposite what I do) helps by decreasing solubility of fluoride
ions.
My non-aroids not
affected include a Vriesea
cultivar (I know that bromeliads should not be watered with tap water but
recently I started to do so with no problems) and a Schefflera.
Th pH of our tap
water is around 8.0 and that of deionized water is around 5.5. Light levels are
low but Monstera deliciosa must
not die where Philodenrdons live
and grow.
The plants do not
suffer from a „bad gardener” as at my workplace my Mosteras florished. There lives the motherplant of my M. deliciosa and it is huge, without any
leafburns and the small leafed species (which I lost here at home) grew well
without any blackening of the leaves too. Sunburn, under- or overwatering, too
heavy soil mix should be excluded (maybe it is not the right word... I mean, do
not consider them).
Maybe it is not
the water, but I can not think of anything else. Monstera deliciosa and Chlorophytum
comosum are so easy plants to grow and make thrive that it is really
strange that I can not even keep them alive here at home.
Do you have any
idea?
Ferenc
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