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[Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots
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From: Sheldon Hatheway <sfhatheway at yahoo.com>
on 2012.01.25 at 18:54:27
I must be missing something here. I've grown Arum italicum in my back yard (and thanks to birds dropping seeds, in my front and side yards also) for at least 40 years and they are just one short step away from becoming invasive weeds! I haven't tried any of the other arums mentioned for fear that they would take over like the italicums. Here in our part of the Pacific Northwest the temps can occasionally get down to near zero F. and it rains throughout most of the winter. Fortunately we have a sandy loam in our part of town so water never stands for long, even in heavy rains (like the last few days). Maybe I should man up and try some of the other arums and see if they would do well outside all year long as well.
Sheldon
Hatheway Canby OR 97013 Zone 7B (or something like that)
From: D. Christopher Rogers <branchiopod@gmail.com>
To: Discussion of aroids <aroid-l@www.gizmoworks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots
=0A Aw, shucks! =0A =0A I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . =0A=0A =0A No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published?
=0A Happy days, =0A Christopher
=0A On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce <phymatarum@googlemail.com> wrote: =0A =0A=0A =0A Hi Christopher, =0A =0A Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers =E2=80=93 did you get =E2=80=98the =E2=80=98Decade of Change=E2=80=99 paper =E2=80=93 but that aside the new monograph will be someone else=E2=80=99s challenge! =0A=0A =0A Very best as ever =0A =0A Peter =0A =0A =0A
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots
=0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A Hi Don,
I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep
straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the
problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to
=0Ashop around.
Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list)
needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the
alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary
=0Apeat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality
sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch
pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings.
Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot
=0Aannually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers
will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then
water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil.
=0AArum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger
tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When
actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers
=0Arate.
Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on
all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of
room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated
=0Aand become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis.
Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening
books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the
inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks
=0Agrowing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from
the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean
smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as
=0Along as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for
the next year.
Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow)
stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming
=0Acompletely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the
tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of
tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the
=0Asoil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also
important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the
desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging
=0Adown a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids)
are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It
is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly
=0Anot exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level
the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside.
Hope this helps some
Pete =0A =0A =0A
--
=0A =0A D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D< 785.864.1714=0A =0A Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist
Kansas Biological Survey
Kansas University, Higuchi Hall
2101 Constant Avenue, Lawrence, KS 66047-3759 USA =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG=0A
_______________________________________________
Aroid-L mailing list
Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com
http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
=0A
-- =0A D. Christopher Rogers
((,///////////=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<
785.864.1714 =0A Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist
Kansas Biological Survey
Kansas University, Higuchi Hall
2101 Constant Avenue, Lawrence, KS 66047-3759 USA =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG=0A _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.comhttp://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
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