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From: GeoffAroid at aol.com on 1999.03.31 at 14:45:49(3184)
Dear All,
3 questions:
1) I have just obtained a magnificent plant of A.wentii (very large, 4 feet
From: alistair_hay at rbgsyd.gov.au on 1999.04.01 at 14:39:16(3215)
I don't think A. wentii proper is in cultivation at all. It certainly
bears no resemblance to plants in cultivation known as A. wentii.

The thing figured in Burnett's account of Alocasia (Aroideana 7:
fig.60) as A. wentii is evidently a hybrid with A. cuprea and
something else unknown to me.

Alocasias certainly hybridise freely in cultivation (and occasionally
in the wild) - even between quite distantly related species. Some
hybrids are themselves fertile.

Hilo Beauty does not look like an Alocasia to me: more likely a

Alistair Hay

From: Pugturd at aol.com on 2000.03.08 at 22:44:49(4181)
Hello Richard!! This is Brian Williams. With that many Alocasias do you do
any trading? I have a nice size collection. You can see it at the following
website. Let me know if interested. THANKS


From: "Steve Lucas Exotic Rainforest" <steve at exoticrainforest.com> on 2007.03.16 at 21:43:09(15429)
Grower Leland Miyano in Hawaii sent me these photos. He
is hoping for an ID. If you recognize either please let me know. I'm
told #1 may be Alocasia rugosa? For #2 he says the color is very
dark, almost black. I'm in hopes Peter, Alistair or others who are
alocasia experts on this forum can help Leland out. He also says they are


Steve Lucas

From: "alocasia" <bs246466 at skynet.be> on 2007.03.18 at 16:38:12(15430)
I don't know for the first,but the second is for
sure a scalprum

----- Original Message -----

From: "Steve Lucas Exotic Rainforest" <steve at exoticrainforest.com> on 2007.03.18 at 23:07:34(15434)
Thanks for the input!


From: "Peter Boyce" <botanist at malesiana.com> on 2007.03.19 at 05:05:37(15436)
I can't access the images but the name A.
rugosa is invalid (never scientifically published); the plant under this
name on the web is Alocasia melo

From: "Harry Witmore" <harrywitmore at witmore.net> on 2007.03.19 at 15:59:05(15439)
Title: Message

Actually any browser such as Internet Explorer opens
.gif's. Just select File, Open and select the file to open it.


From: "Denis Rotolante" <denis at skg.com> on 2007.03.19 at 16:08:17(15440)
Title: Message

program do I use to open a .gif file?

From: "Steve Lucas Exotic Rainforest" <steve at exoticrainforest.com> on 2007.03.19 at 16:32:47(15441)
Title: Message


Gif files should open on your computer just like a jpeg which
is quite common. Gif are just compressed files to keep the download time
shorter. I'll send you the photos directly and do it in jpeg.

Steve Lucas

From: <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2007.03.19 at 17:56:48(15443)
Title: Message

The best for viewing all graphic files is Irfan
View. Type the name in Google, the homepage will be first on the

From: piaba <piabinha at yahoo.com> on 2009.06.28 at 02:20:24(19464)
i have a couple of Alocasias that have not thrived lately. i have now a couple of stumps or sections of the rootstock that are not growing. is there a way to make them re-awaken? or should i just toss them?

=======tsuh yang


From: STARSELL at aol.com on 2009.06.28 at 16:09:39(19468)
Don't toss them.

Try potting them in a container small enough to hold the

tubers with some soil-less mix with some added perlite

for drainage. Keep them on the dry side; not completely

dry but never wet.

It will take some time but you will see a little rolled up

little leaf emerge at the top.





From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2009.06.29 at 01:10:47(19470)
Hi Tsuh Yang,

Many Alocasia literally 'climb' through layers of leaf litter, rooting as
they go, with the older parts of the elongated rhizome gradually senescing
and eventually dying. After much experimentation, and not a few deaths, we
have settled pots half full of a mineral soil (locally produce red topsoil
mixed with river sand in 1:1 mix), with the rhizome at most half buried, and
the remained of the pot filled with leaf litter. The root growth at the leaf
litter/mineral soil interface is extraordinarily vigorous and with the loose
leaves the problem of bacterial rot is resolved. I would suggest that you
try planting our dormant rhizomes in this manner and see what happens.


From: STARSELL at aol.com on 2009.06.29 at 21:42:38(19473)
Dear Peter,

Thank you much for posting this! I have two that I just

re-planted per your below Rx.

I knew they were alive but I had not seen much improvement

using the method I described, at least they were not continuing

to decline.



From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2009.07.02 at 01:56:17(19476)

Itis my belief that even in the wild forest Alocasia often go throughperiods of boom and bust; with the plants reaching a peak of physicalperfection and the often soon afterwards ‘crashing’; thecycle in the wild seems to be ameliorated by the rejuvenation induced byregular leaf fall, but in pots there is a real danger that the pieces of the disarticulatedrhizome do not get the chance to rejuvenate before they run out of storedcarbohydrate, and then seem to lose the ability (will?) to re-grow.

Anotherfactor that is only now becoming clear is that Alocasia, and many other terrestrialaroids too, I suspect, have some mycrorrhizal association. I first began tosuspect this on finding super-vigorous specimens with infeasibly small rootsystems in the wild. Clearly the roots were too small to support the nutrientuptake that the plants needed, and yet the plants were thriving. The point wasreinforced by observations of litter-trapping Schismatoglottis, notably speciesin the S. barbata complex, where investigation of the leaf litterrevealed copious fungal hyphae and significant composting of the oldest leaf litter,with the plants rooting from the stem and through the leaf bases into thiscomposted material and the decomposing leaves above. From our experiments wehave observed a beneficial fungal population developing in the leaf litterwithin a couple of months, and a notable increase in plant vigour at this time.In fact, we no longer apply fertilizer to our plants (a considerable saving intime and money with ca 10,000 individual pots...) and this despite the factthat the nursery receives 5+ m of rain per anuum, and thus the flow-through ofnutrients from the pots must be considerable.

Onthe subject of watering, our plants get watered every day, either from ourvirtually daily torrential downpours, or, in ‘dry’ periods fromoverhead sprinklers. Even in dry periods humidity seldom drops below 70%. Thekey is well-drained media and making sure that the rhizome is not totallyburied. The crucial thing is that the leaf litter layer should not become dry(leaves crispy). The leaf litter (topmost leaves) remain damp and the leavesflexible.

Onenote, once you get the fungal hyphae community underway, the leaf litter willdecompose fairly quickly. We ‘top up’ the leaves regularly toensure that there are always fresh leaves on top of the decomposing andcomposted ones.





From: "John Criswick" <criswick at spiceisle.com> on 2009.07.03 at 18:18:47(19481)
Dear Peter,

Doyou have any thoughts about the difficulty of cultivating A. robusta? Igot one growing nicely in a 10” pot, but on planting it in nice,leafmouldy, well drained soil, it went into reverse and disappeared. Of courseI couldn’t grow it to maximum size in a container.




From: STARSELL at aol.com on 2009.07.05 at 02:06:59(19483)
Dear Peter,

I use a commercial mycrorrhizal fungi for some things when

I pot them. I don't think I have used it on the alocasias.

Would it be a good idea to sprinkle a little of it into the

leaf litter?



From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2009.07.15 at 09:06:50(19523)

Apologiesfor the slow reply; have just been attending the Nancy aroid conference, thento Munich to Josef’s collection, and then to Firenze to work in theBeccari Herbarium; just back today.

Alocasiarobustais not easy and invariably reacts very badly to transplanting. We havefound the only way to grow successfully it is to plant ex vitro into thefinal size pot (looks ludicrous for a long but works) or to sown seeds (3 -4)into the final size pot or final growing place.

Inthe wild it is a gap-phase plant, and in cultivation needs nearly full sun orvery light shade. It is also definitely a plant for a mineral soil; in habitatthe largest plants are always in the local terat series red soils with lightleaf litter cover.





From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2009.07.15 at 09:32:47(19524)

Apologiesfor the long delay in answering your email; have just returned from the Nancyaroid conference, followed by visits to Josef’s collection in Munich and aspell in the Beccari Herbarium, Firenze.

Ithink it would definitely be beneficial to try inoculating. I would also trysome larger leaves; we use whole leaves of Meliaceae and Ficus (ca 3 – 4 cm x 2cm or more).





From: "John Criswick" <criswick at spiceisle.com> on 2009.07.15 at 22:33:44(19534)
Thank you very much indeed Peter !

From:aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Peter Boyce
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 20092:07 AM
To: 'Discussion of aroids'
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Alocasias

Dear John,

Apologies for the slow reply; have just beenattending the Nancy aroid conference, then to Munich to Josef’s collection, and then to Firenze to work in the Beccari Herbarium; just backtoday.

Alocasia robustais not easy and invariably reactsvery badly to transplanting. We have found the only way to grow successfully itis to plant ex vitro into the final size pot (looks ludicrous for a longbut works) or to sown seeds (3 -4) into the final size pot or final growingplace.

In the wild it is a gap-phase plant, and incultivation needs nearly full sun or very light shade. It is also definitely aplant for a mineral soil; in habitat the largest plants are always in the localterat series red soils with light leaf litter cover.

Very best




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