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  A. splendium (sensu lato)
From: "Jay Vannini" interbnk at infovia.com.gt> on 2000.03.31 at 20:11:12(4298)
Mil gracias a todos!

OK- think I have this taxonomic Rubik's cube sorted out.

Change culture from cool and misty to warm and steamy, but well-drained -
gotcha.

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From: SelbyHort at aol.com on 2000.04.02 at 07:59:34(4315)
Jay,

I think Betsy added some info to the list about the plants called Anthurium
corrugatum. We once had the long internode thing called A. corrugatum, but it
died...was very hard to grow. The plants I saw at Fairchild had short
internodes, bullate leaves, matte surface. I think these may be different
species than the plant Dewey has. I hope someone takes some pics of these
different things and gets the names sorted out for all of us. I had heard
that Rick Cirino's plant that was once called "corrugatum" is indeed the true
Anthurium splendidum. Since I have only heard about this plant and never seen
it, I don't know how it compares to the things growing in Florida. It could
be that Dewey's plant is same as the Cirino clone, and is actually now
Anthurium splendidum...Dewey do you know???

At any rate, it wil be good to see the paper about this.

I don't know what it is that you are calling Anthurium "papilionense". There
is an Anthurium papillilaminum that has beautiful velvety leaves, generally
dark green with some red undertones, and this plant is somewhat hard to grow
as well. It does not have bullate leaves.

Give that sick Anthurium luxuriens some mist and warmth and it should leaf
out, but you may instead get new apices from leaf nodes further down on the
stem. Just don't cover the original apex too deep in the NZ spagnum, keep it
well above the surface of the moss so it does not rot out, with moss loosely
packed, not tight in pot. You may want to use prophylactic fungus treatment
periodically to be on safe side.

If the apex does not put out leaves right away, you could next lose most of
the roots. Watch out for fungus gnats at this stage, this seems to be when
larvae love to attack the remains of roots and burrow into and rapidily
devour stem tissue. Treatments for gnats that are largely contact sprays or
fogs will kill adult gnats, but unless plant is drenched you will not easily
get rid of gnat larvae. We sometimes take Anthurium with gnat problems out of
pots, if there is enough left we scrape off damaged stem areas, let it dry
somewhat then dust cuts with fungicide. Leave dry stem lay around for a while
(maybe a week or two) to callus over well, then replant and hope you have
some viable nodes left. This is worst case scenario, of course, so don't get
too bummed, I am just telling you what will happen if you do not keep close
eye on plant (yes, one must be somewhat a-retentive to be good grower) and
take some precautions, but even best of us have this happen...we all know the
sick feeling of digging out fungus gnat larvae and being left with only a
little stub of solid stem left, rotted apex, with no nodes to regenerate. Not
a pretty sight.

Donna Atwood
Selby Gardens

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From: Betsytrips at aol.com on 2000.04.02 at 11:21:11(4317)
In a message dated 4/2/00 9:59:57 AM Central Daylight Time, SelbyHort@aol.com
writes:

<< The plants I saw at Fairchild had short

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