Typhonodorum lindleyanum

From: Jack Honeycutt jhoneycutt at uswest.net> on 2000.07.04 at 04:33:05(4975) I have ordered, and just received, a smattering of past issues of Aroideana. Now I have many questions. I will try to contain myself, and just post a few.... In Vol 10, No 4 (Dec 1987) I found a interesting article by Dorothy Shaw entitled "Germination of T. lindleyanum at Brisbane, Australia". I have a larger pond that I have used to grown Victoria water lilies. It is heated with a gas swimming pool heater, and backed up with an array of solar collectors. While it can get cool here in Portland Oregon (Zone 8 in the Pacific Northwest part of the US), I can grow all of the tropical water lilies that I want with my set up. But I do need to start some plants indoors, then move them to the pond early in the season to produce seed. Might it be possible to start T. lindleyanum indoors, then move it outside in the spring? Any guesses as to the low temperature range for this plant? Do you think it might stay alive if the air temperature dropped into the low 70's F to high 60's F for a few nights in the summer? I use 50 gallon and 200 gallon pots to grow Victorias. Perhaps a 50 gallon pot of soil will do for this plant? At some point I hope to build a greenhouse, but it is looking like it will be 2 years out before I have it glassed in. I had planned on a *small* indoor pond. But after seeing this giant, I am thinking about expanding the greenhouse pond. +More Advice appreciated jack in Portland Oregon

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 2000.07.04 at 22:24:37(4978) Dear Jack, i`ll take a stab at trying to give you some info. on this wonderful plany which I have seen grown and used to grow myself here in W.P.B. Florida. What you describe should be fine for growing Typhonodorum sucessfully, and you may not have to use such a huge pot, 15 or 20 gal. pots should be just fine! Be careful with your choice of 'soil', as some highly organic mixes quickly rot when put under water, the plant dies, and when the dead plant is removed from the pot, the soild smells like a dead dog!! The late Dr. Monroe birdsey grew his in a pot of mainly coarse sand with some peat moss mixed in, he stood the pots in fish ponds, and the fishes waste fertilized the plants. I believe he aslo used to bury a couple of those solid, hard fertilizer 'balls' about the size of a marshmellow in the soil mix. IF you manage to produce a monster (I`ve seen them to 6', with a 9" dia 'trunk'!!!!) after several years of growth, then you may consider a slightly larger pot! Your idea of starting them indoors in spring is a good one, and protection from cool/cold winds would be a 'must' even in your summer.. The warm water would be great, and a few cool nights would not hurt them in the least if they are in warm water! They will withstand 60 degs F. for a while, but NO cool/cold winds with it! Warm water temps. wibe a big plus! Hope that this helps. Cheers, Julius +More ju-bo@msn.com >I have ordered, and just received, a smattering of past issues of Aroideana. Now I have many questions. I will try to contain myself, and just post a few.... In Vol 10, No 4 (Dec 1987) I found a interesting article by Dorothy Shaw entitled "Germination of T. lindleyanum at Brisbane, Australia". I have a larger pond that I have used to grown Victoria water lilies. It is heated with a gas swimming pool heater, and backed up with an array of solar collectors. While it can get cool here in Portland Oregon (Zone 8 in the Pacific Northwest part of the US), I can grow all of the tropical water lilies that I want with my set up. But I do need to start some plants indoors, then move them to the pond early in the season to produce seed. Might it be possible to start T. lindleyanum indoors, then move it outside in the spring? Any guesses as to the low temperature range for this plant? Do you think it might stay alive if the air temperature dropped into the low 70's F to high 60's F for a few nights in the summer? I use 50 gallon and 200 gallon pots to grow Victorias. Perhaps a 50 gallon pot of soil will do for this plant? At some point I hope to build a greenhouse, but it is looking like it will be 2 years out before I have it glassed in. I had planned on a *small* indoor pond. But after seeing this giant, I am thinking about expanding the greenhouse pond. Advice appreciated jack in Portland Oregon<

From: Jack Honeycutt jhoneycutt at uswest.net> on 2000.07.05 at 21:51:15(4985) At 05:24 PM 7/4/2000 -0500, Julius wrote: >What you describe should be fine for growing Typhonodorum sucessfully, and >you may not have to use such a huge pot, 15 or 20 gal. pots should be just >fine! +More OK. As I get older, tossing around a 50 gallon pot of soil in the pond can get unmanageable. If I can get large leaves with a smaller pot of soil, that would be great. > Be careful with your choice of 'soil', as some highly organic mixes >quickly rot when put under water, the plant dies, and when the dead plant is >removed from the pot, the soild smells like a dead dog!! Ah, I know that smell! OK, thanks for the tip! > The late Dr. >Monroe birdsey grew his in a pot of mainly coarse sand with some peat moss >mixed in, he stood the pots in fish ponds, and the fishes waste fertilized >the plants. I believe he aslo used to bury a couple of those solid, hard >fertilizer 'balls' about the size of a marshmellow in the soil mix. OK >IF you manage to produce a monster (I`ve seen them to 6', with a 9" dia >'trunk'!!!!) after several years of growth, then you may consider a slightly >larger pot! For the next year or two it will be an experiment in growth for one season only. I don't heat the pond all year. And I am sure the Oregon winters will kill it off even if the water were warm (?). Perhaps I can play with starting a seed in winter indoors, then moving the plant outside for one growing season and see how I do. Then when the greenhouse gets built I can make a place to grow one all year. Might is be possible to produce seed from a plant in one growing season? >They will withstand 60 degs F. for a while, but NO cool/cold winds with it! >Warm water temps. wibe a big plus! OK, I suspect I could maintain good temps in the future greenhouse. Thanks again for the good info! jack in Oregon

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 2000.07.07 at 23:39:54(5004) At 05:24 PM 7/4/2000 -0500, Julius wrote: >What you describe should be fine for growing Typhonodorum sucessfully, and >you may not have to use such a huge pot, 15 or 20 gal. pots should be just >fine! +More >OK. As I get older, tossing around a 50 gallon pot of soil in the pond can get unmanageable. If I can get large leaves with a smaller pot of soil, that would be great.< You will be fine with a 20 gal MAX. size pot! > Be careful with your choice of 'soil', as some highly organic mixes >quickly rot when put under water, the plant dies, and when the dead plant is >removed from the pot, the soil smells like a dead dog!! <> OK! > The late Dr. >Monroe birdsey grew his in a pot of mainly coarse sand with some peat moss >mixed in, he stood the pots in fish ponds, and the fishes waste fertilized >the plants. I believe he aslo used to bury a couple of those solid, hard >fertilizer 'balls' about the size of a marshmellow in the soil mix. >IF you manage to produce a monster (I`ve seen them to 6', with a 9" dia >'trunk'!!!!) after several years of growth, then you may consider a slightly >larger pot! < only. I don't heat the pond all year. And I am sure the Oregon winters will kill it off even if the water were warm (?). Perhaps I can play with starting a seed in winter indoors, then moving the plant outside for one growing season and see how I do. Then when the greenhouse gets built I can make a place to grow one all year.>> I don`t think I understand---one season will give you a plant maybe 12-18" (INCHES!) tall--it will take several years (3-4???) at the least to get anything of any size!! You will HAVE to over-winter these small plants SOMEHOW IF you want to eventually have sizeable/mature plants!! By the way IF you have a couple seed to spare let me know, I know a guy that wants a couple. >Might is be possible to produce seed from a plant in one growing season?< NO sir!! This is one of the Aroid giants, my BEST guess is a growth period of several years before seed! >They will withstand 60 degs F. for a while, but NO cool/cold winds with it! >Warm water temps. will be a big plus! >OK, I suspect I could maintain good temps in the future greenhouse. Thanks again for the good info!< You will need to over-winter any you get before you build the g/house. How do you presently over-winter the trop. w/ lilys?? >jack in Oregon< Cheers, Julius ju-bo@msn.com

From: Pugturd at aol.com on 2000.07.09 at 02:40:21(5027) Hello this is Brian Williams. I have been growing the Typhonodorum lindleyanum for a while know. Mine is still small I got it from B&T seeds when they were able to send the seeds. It seems they will not send them to the US no more? Julius is the best person to talk to on growing these aquatic aroids he has been growing them a long time. the one thing I have notices with most of the aquatic aroids is a lot of them seem to melt if it gets around 50F. One thing I have done is put an aquarium heater in the water they seem to be able to take colder air it is the water that get cold enough to kill them. Here is a few links that have nice pictures of the Typhonodorum lindleyanum. I looked for this plant for about a year. LOL To bad it seems to grow slow. All the pictures look pretty good and worth looking threw if you like this aroid. I have seen a lot of other pictures of this plant but not sure were the links are yet. THANKS http://www.b-and-t-world-seeds.com/Typhon.htm +More http://www.gardencomposer.com/dicomp-expeditions-seychelles.html http://mobot.mobot.org/cgi-bin/search_pick?w3till=MOA-00292_001.jpg http://www.si.gunma-u.ac.jp/~aoki/BotanicalGarden/HTMLs/Typhonodorum-lindleyan um.html http://www.petsforum.com/cichlidroom/habitats/Anjingo/andrapongy-01.html http://www.petsforum.com/cichlidroom/habitats/Hernandrano/hernandrano-01.html http://vesmir.msu.cas.cz/Madagaskar/images/vystava1999/JL/38.jpg http://w3y.pharm.hiroshima-u.ac.jp/member/yamasaki/made3.htm

From: Jack Honeycutt jhoneycutt at uswest.net> on 2000.07.10 at 04:11:31(5035) At 06:40 PM 7/7/2000 -0500, Julius wrote: >I don`t think I understand---one season will give you a plant maybe 12-18" >(INCHES!) tall--it will take several years (3-4???) at the least to get >anything of any size!! Oh! OK. well, maybe I could over winter it in the small indoor pond in the basement. +More By the way IF you have a couple seed to spare let me know, I know a guy that >wants a couple. I will be looking for seed myself. If I find some, I'll be happy to pass any extra out. > >Might is be possible to produce seed from a plant in one growing season?< > >NO sir!! This is one of the Aroid giants, my BEST guess is a growth period >of several years before seed! Ah, OK. >You will need to over-winter any you get before you build the g/house. How >do you presently over-winter the trop. w/ lilys?? Well, Victorias waterlilies flower and develop seed in one season. In the fall, the plant dies from the cold. But because seed was produced, one starts a new plant the next spring. But most other tropical waterlilies are dug up in the fall, and the tubers stored indoors over winter, then planted again next spring. It is such a big pain, that many folks just buy new tropical waterlilies the next year. Tubers of hardy water lilies can over winter in the bottom of a pond. The pond can even freeze over, but as long as the tubers don't freeze, they will come back the following year. jack

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 2000.07.10 at 21:42:57(5037) At 06:40 PM 7/7/2000 -0500, Julius wrote: >I don`t think I understand---one season will give you a plant maybe 12-18" >(INCHES!) tall--it will take several years (3-4???) at the least to get >anything of any size!! Oh! OK. well, maybe I could over winter it in the small indoor pond in the basement.< +More This is not TOO difficult--an aquarium water heater, a overhead grow-light at the correct height above the leaves, and that should do it! By the way IF you have a couple seed to spare let me know, I know a guy that >wants a couple. I will be looking for seed myself. If I find some, I'll be happy to pass any extra out.< OK. When you do find a source, you should get lots, they produce LOTS of huge, already-germinating seeds from one inflor., and produce multiple inflor.`s at a time. > >Might is be possible to produce seed from a plant in one growing season?< > >NO sir!! This is one of the Aroid giants, my BEST guess is a growth period >of several years before seed! Ah, OK.< This is a BIG plant! >You will need to over-winter any you get before you build the g/house. How >do you presently over-winter the trop. w/ lilys?? Well, Victorias waterlilies flower and develop seed in one season. In the fall, the plant dies from the cold. But because seed was produced, one starts a new plant the next spring.< WOW! They do their thing in a hurry! I guess their pools dry out in nature?? >But most other tropical waterlilies are dug up in the fall, and the tubers stored indoors over winter, then planted again next spring. It is such a big pain, that many folks just buy new tropical waterlilies the next year. Tubers of hardy water lilies can over winter in the bottom of a pond. The pond can even freeze over, but as long as the tubers don't freeze, they will come back the following year.< These must be cheap plants! The late DR Monroe Birdsey in Miami bred quite a few new ones, and treasured his plants. Thanks for the information! Cheers, Julius

From: charles labone <nighttraveller9 at hotmail.com> on 2009.08.05 at 13:21:20(19635) Hello,         Can anybody suggest a source for plants or seeds of  Typhonodorum lindleyanum? I'm in the UK. Kind regards Charles HTML +More Celebrate a decade of Messenger with free winks, emoticons, display pics, and more. Get Them Now--_64362848-761d-48f8-b52d-1413b2a892fd_----==============h25346790719054585=

From: Sheldon Hatheway <sfhatheway at yahoo.com> on 2009.08.05 at 18:10:17(19638) Hi, Charles!! In March of this year, Mr. Peter Wunderin (I do hope I have the right name here!!) posted on this list that he had some seeds of Typhonodorum lindleyanum to distribute to anyone who wanted them. He sent me 10 seeds from his home in South Africa. They arrived in excellent condition and all 10 of them sprouted and are growing well. I would send you some of the extra plants myself if I knew how to properly package them (and get them through all the bureaucratic obstacles), but I'm not sure how well they would survive being shipped from Canby, Oregon, USA all the way across the pond to the UK. Mr. Wunderin's e-mail is pmdes1@saol.com. He might even have some material available. Best of luck. Sheldon Hatheway HTML +More Canby OR 97013-2812 USA From: charles labone To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 6:21:20 AM Subject: [Aroid-l] Typhonodorum lindleyanum Hello, Can anybody suggest a source for plants or seeds of Typhonodorum lindleyanum? I'm in the UK. Kind regards Charles Celebrate a decade of Messenger with free winks, emoticons, display pics, and more. Get Them Now --0-406630739-1249495817=:91844----============== 36408826999507294=

From: "John Criswick" <criswick at spiceisle.com> on 2009.08.05 at 18:39:47(19640) I can supply. How manydo you require? John Criswick, Grenada, West Indies. From:aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of charles labone Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 20099:21 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com HTML +More Subject: [Aroid-l] Typhonodorumlindleyanum Hello, Can anybody suggest a source forplants or seeds of Typhonodorum lindleyanum? I'm in the UK. Kind regards Charles Celebrate a decade of Messenger with free winks,emoticons, display pics, and more. Get ThemNow Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.385 / Virus Database: 270.13.43/2280 - Release Date: 08/05/09 05:57:00 ------=_NextPart_000_0115_01CA15DA.9C7ECD10----==============(74255537539172588=

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