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  More Synandrospadix
From: Dan Levin levin at pixar.com> on 2001.05.30 at 13:32:16(6605)
I was also fortunate to receive 3 seeds of Synandrospadix vermitoxicus
last November, compliments of the magnanimous Alan Galloway. Having
recalled some brief comments Julius Boos posted over a year ago on the
germination of this species*, I performed a small experiment:

- All 3 seeds were sown into the same well wetted mix; 1 per 4" (10 cm) pot.
- All 3 pots were placed atop a gro-mat, thermostat set to 80? F / 23? C.
- One pot was covered with an inverted Zip-Loc baggie (not sealed) to maintain
moisture/humidity, the other 2 were left exposed- their soil kept "barely damp".
- Within 3 weeks, the one covered seed germinated. No activity in the other pots.
- After development of the first leaf, I re-soaked all 3 pots then repositioned the
baggie onto the adjacent (dormant) potted seed.
- Just over 3 weeks later, THAT seed sprouted.
And in case you didn't already guess, I later repeated this procedure one last time
with the exact same results on the 3rd seed- giving 100% germination.
Notwithstanding Julius' recent comments about delayed germination & survival
strategies (which make perfect sense), I'm nonetheless led to believe this species
requires constant moisture and heat in order to germinate. Perhaps those lengthy or
otherwise erratic results others have experienced can be traced to local environmental
conditions finally being "right" (warm + moist) for sufficient time to finally induce
germination. Or... perhaps my bouncing baggie game was mere coincidence (?).

Next time anyone makes/receives seed of this plant, it would be neat if you could
try this for yourself and let us know your results!

Respectfully submitted,
-Dan Levin

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 2001.05.31 at 01:18:22(6630)
Thanks for letting us know of your sucess, Dan! I guess the poor seeds
just sit around in other folk`s pots waiting for the correct amount of
humidity and wetness, etc., and some germinate while others don`t! This
must be much like in their 'natural' harsh habitat, while your method must
provide the near-to-perfect set of conditions that they must require for

Good growing!


From: "Ron Iles" roniles at eircom.net> on 2001.05.31 at 01:18:49(6632)

Is there a reason for it being named S, vermitoxicus?

Ron Iles

From: "Eduardo Goncalves" edggon at hotmail.com> on 2001.05.31 at 04:50:24(6635)
Dear Ron,

In the countries where S. vermitoxicus is native (Northern Argentina,
Paraguay and Bolivia), it is used against "worms" (in fact, it is used
against ectoparasites like fly larvae). They grate the tubers (poor tubers)
and put it directly on the wounds. Considering that Synandrospadix is a
close relative of Dieffenbachia (the dangerous dumb-cane), poor worms too!
Interestingly, there is another close relative called Gorgonidium
vermicidum, also used against worms in Andean countries. If it is effective,
we do not know, because studies on the pharmacological aspects of aroids are
scanty. Maybe someday...

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 2001.05.31 at 13:21:28(6636)

Is there a reason for it being named S, vermitoxicus?

Ron Iles<<

From: "Eduardo Goncalves" edggon at hotmail.com> on 2001.05.31 at 14:52:26(6638)
Dear aroid people,

There is a very useful resource that I think some of you do not know. Go
to the site http://www.hort.net/lists//aroid-l/search.cgi and type the genus
(or subject) that interests you within the aroid business. It will bring you
past posts on Aroid-L, since 1996 (yes, since the stone age). Everything you
send to aroid-l is kept in their archives, so there is a lot of information
there! Try this!!!! I have discovered, as an example, that my English did
not improve too much since my first recorded posts!



From: "S.P.J. Hoogma" s.p.j.hoogma at hccnet.nl> on 2001.05.31 at 18:24:29(6641)
>From the site of Paul Christian:

Tubers are about 10cm diameter and just under 50gm in weight. These are
naturally covered in tiny oxalate crystals which repel and kill insects and
wildlife, hence the latin name, the crystals may also irritate sensitive
human skins, so wash you hands after handling them and be warned that the
tubers, in common with most aroids, (Arum, Biarum, Arisaema etc) are
poisonous if eaten.

Sipke Hoogma

From: "Ron Iles" roniles at eircom.net> on 2001.05.31 at 20:28:37(6648)
Hi Eduardo & Julius!

As two of our experts in Brazil and from Trinidad you are always
delightfully helping all

From: "Ron Iles" roniles at eircom.net> on 2001.05.31 at 20:29:17(6651)
Thank you Paul - all this wisdom in Aroid L needs to be consolidated for
IAS, a huge treasure chest!

Ron Iles

From: magrysbo at shu.edu on 2001.06.02 at 15:16:48(6681)
Yes, but will they repel #!**%!!#@%ing nematodes?

"Eduardo Goncalves" @mobot.org on 05/31/2001 12:50:43

Please respond to aroid-l@mobot.org

Sent by: aroid-l@mobot.org

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 2001.06.13 at 14:58:58(6691)
>>Yes, but will they repel #!**%!!#@%ing nematodes?<<

Not these little bastard nematodes here in Florida---the greatest cause of
'tuber death' of Synandrospadix around here if Florida seems to be


From: "Eduardo Goncalves" edggon at hotmail.com> on 2001.06.13 at 15:00:55(6699)
No, despite it is considered strongly toxic to mammals, it is usually
attacked by another parasites. My biggest tuber of Synandrospadix
vermitoxicus (approx. 15 cm in diameter, before the attack) were attacked by
an unknown primary agent during its dormancy (maybe nematodes, but I
couldn?t find the monsters), so it was followed by fungus, bacteriae and
even termites (believe me!), so it lost approximately 50% of its weight. Now
I think it isn?t lost (I scrapped the tubers, put them in a Temik solution
and sealed with fungicides). I only hope the the plant survive the chemical
attack! I have never seen a massive attack like this in a tuberous aroid, so
the poison is not so effective. Anyway, do not eat your tubers!


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