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  Rot Prevention
From: "WEAVER,BILL (HP-USA,ex3)" bill_weaver at hp.com> on 2001.12.10 at 16:32:48(7876)
At a recent orchid society meeting, the speaker mentioned that
he uses hydrogen peroxide (3%) to treat orchids that have experienced
a problem with rot. Basically, he waters the plant on its regular
schedule, but for three waterings he uses hydrogen peroxide. His
reasoning was that apparently plants (at least orchids) produce a
weak hydrogen peroxide solution at the interface between leaf and
stem when the plant is dropping a diseased leaf. His reasoning being
that if the plant produces it inside, it should have no problem with
it being applied on the outside.

Long story, short question. Does anybody have any idea if this procedure
might help combat rot in dormant potted amorphophallus tubers?

Bill Weaver

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From: mburack at mindspring.com> on 2001.12.11 at 07:36:55(7878)
I know I am going to get smacked for this, but.... regardless, why would this be "better" than using one of the MANY fungicide products on the market? Cost?

As far as I know, Hydrogen peroxide has great "disenfectant properties" but I dont know if you would find it to be a broad spectrum fungicide.

aroid-l@mobot.org wrote:

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From: magrysbo at shu.edu on 2001.12.11 at 12:11:46(7881)
I dunno Bill. I gently scrubbed problem Arisaema tubers with it and let
them air dry. Cleans off all schmutz and I believe that any litter critters
onboard were jumping for their lives.
Bonaventure Magrys

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From: Denis denis at skg.com> on 2001.12.11 at 13:13:28(7882)
The great thing about hydrogen peroxide is that is a good topical
disinfectant and it is applied, does its thing instantaneously and then
breaks down in the process into water and oxygen. No obnoxious organic
molecules to pollute the environment (or if you are a nurseryman poison
your workers). As far as treating Amorphophalli tubers with it, it is
non specific in its action and will take out the good microflora as well
as the pathogenic organism. It would be ok if you suspect rot problems
are happening or going to happen. However, I would not want to start
wipe out the equilibrium that exists in the Amorphophallus root zone
around the rhizome. If you are going to all the trouble of dipping the
pots in the stuff you might as well just bare root them and store them
in an inert material that does not support rotting. But then again I
don't do much with Amorphophalli and so what do I know.

Denis at Silver Krome Gardens
Homestead Florida

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From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 2001.12.11 at 13:15:34(7884)
I wonder why one would 'treat' a rare and valuable plant tuber with an
experimental at best dip into a potentially damaging and experimental
solution when there are tested and proven cures such as 'BANROT' CAPTAN and
MANY others available that are SPECIFICALLY developed for these rot
problems?
I sure would not try it on any of my tubers that were and ARE becoming MUCH
more difficult if not impossible to obtain and even ship!

Julius

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From: magrysbo at shu.edu on 2001.12.11 at 16:50:07(7887)
It was a 1% solution on only several tubers, mostly Arisaema, that had been
dug up for storage, and were rotting out despite application of other
compounds. These tubers have no live roots during dormancy and survive kept
absolutely dry.
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From: magrysbo at shu.edu on 2001.12.11 at 16:52:14(7888)
PS I used a very soft and very worn old toothbrush.
BWM

"Julius Boos"

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From: "WEAVER,BILL (HP-USA,ex3)" bill_weaver at hp.com> on 2001.12.17 at 14:29:15(7934)
Okay, maybe I stirred up a hornets nest here. What I was trying to do
was find a way to insure that my dormant tubers come back next year.
I store my dormant plants under the bench still potted up in their pots.
I do not disturb them to re-pot until I see signs of growth. During the time

they are dormant I find it a good idea to keep them very slightly moist so
that
they don't desiccate during their dormancy. I was just wondering if it might

be a better idea to use hydrogen peroxide instead of water as the moistening

agent during dormancy.

Bill Weaver

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