IAS Aroid Quasi Forum

About Aroid-L
 This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.

  Zantedeschia
From: Riley2362 at aol.com on 2002.05.02 at 09:25:06(8714)
Whenever anyone mentions Zantedeschia, I recall seeing it growing in Ecuador, not native of course - but lining a streambed for a length of 300-400 feet or so. The elevation was high so the air was very cool but the stream was coming out of the side of a volcano so the water was bathwater temperature. The Zantedeschia was gloriously thick, green and with thousands of inflorescences. We were both very happy.
Michael

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at msn.com> on 2002.05.04 at 13:15:26(8722)
Dear Michael,

I saw the same thing when I lived for a while in
Quito! It was also common around homes in the city, a
beautiful sight!

Julius

+More
From: "Bryant, Susan L." <SLBryant at scj.com> on 2004.02.06 at 13:13:11(11098)
How is this word pronounced?

I've been saying Zant- E- desh- E- a, but I think that is incorrect.

Susan

From: Thomas.Croat at mobot.org on 2004.02.06 at 15:04:50(11104)
Susan: I pronounce it Zant eh? desh (short e) E UH

Tom

-----Original Message-----

+More
From: Don Martinson <llmen at wi.rr.com> on 2004.02.06 at 16:23:07(11106)
Susan: I pronounce it Zant eh? desh (short e) E UH
Tom
I've been saying Zant- E- desh- E- a, but I think that is incorrect.

+More
From: "George R. Stilwell, Jr." GRSJr at worldnet.att.net> on 2005.04.04 at 09:54:05(12829)
Linda,

Let it dry out and go dormant. Put the tubers in the frig for 1 to 2
months. Re-pot and put out in a sunny spot. They need to go dormant, have a
cold period, and lots of sunlight and moisture while growing.

Ray

+More
From: Eric Schmidt leu242 at yahoo.com> on 2005.04.07 at 13:13:20(12854)
We planted several cultivars and hybrids out last
spring here at Leu Gardens in Orlando,FL. We planted
them in our Bog Garden. The soil is very mucky and
soggy all year, there is standing water for several
days after a hard rain. These are the ones that have
come back up so far and flowering now;

Z. aethiopica 'Childsiana'
Z. aethiopica 'Green Goddess'
Z. 'White Giant'

Eric Schmidt

+More
From: Tony Avent tony at plantdelights.com> on 2005.04.08 at 05:06:18(12861)
Eric:

FYI...I have just returned from an expedition to South Africa and we saw
quite a bit of Zantedeschia aethiopica growing in the wild. I had expected
to find it growing in bogs, but instead found it in high elevation rock
cracks, many of which were quite dry. Occasionally we found it in areas of
moist soil, but nothing that would nearly approach boggy conditions.

+More
From: Theodore Held <oppenhauser2001 at gmail.com> on 2011.02.04 at 09:54:27(21852)
Dear List,

I was asked about a puny Zantedeschia yesterday and find that we don't
yet have a discussion of it on the IAS site. Do we have a person
reading this who is familiar with ordinary sorts of Calla lilies and
might give some advice on what to do to keep these guys happy?

Ted Held

+More
From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2011.02.05 at 19:54:09(21855)
Dear Ted,

If you need an ID, take a look at my page:
http://www.wschowa.com/abrimaal/araceum/zantedeschia/zantedeschia.htm
There are some known and less known cultivars,
I have also many other photos on the disk,
A photo will help a lot.

Best,
Marek

+More
From: michael kolaczewski <mjkolaffhbc at sbcglobal.net> on 2011.02.06 at 00:15:26(21860)
Greetings Mr. Held

( and other Forum Members)

I grow Calla Lilies, Zantedeschia, generally

outdoors here in the Chicago land area

during the Spring and Summer Months. Typically in the

ground, but also in containers. Commercial growers usually

pretreat the bulbs with various types of Gibberellic acid, followed

with a drench of fungicide / bactericide.

Cultural procedures that yield bulbs for sale, can also impact

size, number of eyes, and overall health of the bulbs you purchase.

General growing cultutre : These plants like morning sun, where

afternoon sun will bring heat, high shade will be appreciated.

Callas like
moisture, a soil that has compost, organic content, and

a feeding about every 3 to 4 weeks of even balanced fertilzer, through

out the growing season. Plant the bulbs about 5 to 6 inches deep, and

about a foot and a half to two feet apart. I typically put about 2 inches

of a mulch, Pine or Hardwood Or both over the planted area. Dead head

spent flowers to encourage new buds. As far as Insect pests go, you may

see Aphids, or sometimes mites, but rarely. These pests

can be dealt with, when detected early on, in an infestation.

In containers, I use a Bark, Rice Hull, Compost mix. I also add Terrasorb®

and Some graded size of "Aquarium gravel", which helps to drain the mix,

and keeps it from being it overly wet.

There are many color choices these days to choose from, and in the fall I

lift the bulbs, and store them
over the winter, in my basement. I can usually

get a second season out of them, after that, at least here in Chicago, you

can figure on getting fresh stock for the following season. Many are raised

from seeds, which gives the end user / grower, vigorous stock, which should

produce abundant flowering, and large leaf display.

These make an excellent addition to any garden.

Take Care,

Michael Kolaczewski

HTML

+More

From: Susan B <honeybunny442 at yahoo.com> on 2011.02.06 at 19:10:27(21880)
http://lakesidecallas.com/Growing-guide.htm
A growing guide I wrote, although Michael's comments were great!

From: Theodore Held

HTML

+More

From: Theodore Held <oppenhauser2001 at gmail.com> on 2011.02.07 at 10:01:18(21885)
Michael and Marek,

Thanks for the information, gentlemen. From Michael's remarks I am
inferring that these plants are not especially hardy, lasting only two
seasons when grown in cold climates outdoors and overwintered. Does
that sum things up? How about for container-grown plants? Will these
last longer, provided they get good light and (apparently) lots of
water?

There do seem to be a number of species/cultivars. I have never grown
them myself, but I'm a sucker for amateurs with plants in trouble.

I'd like to see our experts cobble together some remarks and get it
posted on our site. We need to fill in this blank.

Best regards to everyone.

Ted Held

+More
From: <snalice at suddenlink.net> on 2011.02.08 at 02:40:18(21891)
Dear Susan,

Do you have any information about Zantedeschia crowborough, the hardiest of all Zantedeschia? There is a story behind that which I would like to hear again. The plant was given to me but I don't recall from whom and the story got lost with the lack of recall. I would love it if someone remembers what happened that horridly cold year in Crowborough for which the plant was named. This is one plant that I don't have to worry about. It gets nothing and gives everything. It even lacks sun year round in our foggy, windy, cold climate and still produces lovely leaves and flowers. The only thing attracted to it are slugs and snails...but no Zantedeschia is safe from those animals.

Thanks!

Susan Cox

HTML

+More

From: Theodore Held <oppenhauser2001 at gmail.com> on 2011.02.08 at 09:56:56(21896)
Susan,

That is quite a paper there. Thanks so much.

OK, who is the one to contact about putting either Susan's or someone
like Susan's growing guide on the IAS site? We could even just put in
a link to Lakeside's site if it comes down to that.

Ted Held.

+More
From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2011.02.08 at 12:51:05(21898)
Dear Ted,

I live in zone 6, and though I cultivate my Zantedeschia plants in the
garden,
I must dig them for winter. I store them until April in a cool basement,
where the temperature never falls below 0C (32F).
In the garden they grow in full Sun, watered everyday
and strongly fertilized. Not all plants bloom every year.
The old big spathed cultivars like 'Black Magic', 'Mango' or 'Schwarzwalder'
are much easier to grow, they usually produce a few inflorescences per
season,
and they prolificate with many offsets.
The new compact ones are not so easy, they require loose soil, well drained,
because the tubers tend to rot (partially from the bottom) when it gets
colder for a few days.
They need to be watered only on sunny days.
Anyway, they are very easy to grow comparing to other tuberous aroids.

Good Luck,
Marek

+More
From: Susan B <honeybunny442 at yahoo.com> on 2011.02.09 at 05:47:41(21906)
Well, I get a lot of questions because I grow so many of them (too many, according to my husband).
Those are just my observations and I wrote it over 5 years ago. If you look at Golden State Bulbs, you can find a lot of information. Most is geared for the professional grower, but a hobbyist can still glean a little information for their home use.
Ted, first you should determine if the plants is an evergreen (Aethiopica) variety or a colored hybrid (so-called Mini Callas, although I hate that name! Nothing mini about them). Care is very different for the two types.

From: Theodore Held

HTML

+More

From: Susan B <honeybunny442 at yahoo.com> on 2011.02.09 at 07:33:09(21909)
Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Crowborough' is a UK variety. I seem to remember a story about it as well, but all I have in my notes is:
"Widely grown, this selection has wider flowers and is hardier than the type". You might try googling Arum aethiopica Crowborough, as it is often called in the UK. The only nursery I have listed as selling it- Duchy of Cornwall Nursery- no longer has it on their website.

I keep a list of all the Zantedeschia varieties I have heard of, kind of like those Amorphophiles who want one of each. However, the list quickly outgrew my hopes- there are over 500 now. I had hoped to start a database with information on all those varieties, but I don't think my computer skills will handle that! There is another person I know of that
also has a list, I can't remember his name right now, he is mostly concerned with Arisaema, though.

I also have a bit of a pet peeve about Zantedeschia aethiopica. I'm just a hobbyist gardener who has a passion for Zantedeschia (so please don't criticize or berate me for my incorrect use of the words hybrid or cultivar), but I simply don't believe that there are so many different varieties. I have a list of 57 different Aethiopicas, from Crowborough to Hercules, Lisa, Moondancer, Snowbaby, the list goes on and on. My opinion (although I'm likely to be wrong) is that growing conditions (soil, water, nutrients, sun) account for many of these different cultivars.

We've all seen the photos of huge blooms and tall plants at Strybling Arboretum of aethiopica "Hercules". Oddly enough there is only a handful of other photos of it on the internet- and none of them come anywhere near that size. Nurseries and ebay
sellers have made a fortune selling, it though!

I used to have Crowbrough, but it was never a good grower for me (although my plants have to either be grown in pots or dug in the fall- so not good growing conditions).
Susan

HTML

+More

From: Theodore Held <oppenhauser2001 at gmail.com> on 2011.02.09 at 10:52:50(21912)
Susan,

My guess is that this is one of your colored smaller varieties rather
than aethiopica. This is based solely on the existing size, which is
about one American foot high and one wide. My friend received it as a
gift and it's just a commercial variety of some sort, probably
purchased through a florist.

What special considerations might there be if I'm not dealing with an
aethiopica?

Ted.

+More
From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2011.02.09 at 11:47:56(21917)
Hello,

...and I (and probably the most people who write here) hate the name Calla used in relation to Zantedeschia.

I know it is a difficult word, someone could name it easier eg. Macrocalla :D

Best,

Marek

HTML

+More

From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2011.02.09 at 12:17:40(21919)
Dear Susan,

Is it 'Crowborough'? Because I'm still not quite sure (these brown petioles):

http://www.wschowa.com/abrimaal/araceum/zantedeschia/aethiopicacrowborough.htm

Best,

Marek

HTML

+More

From: Susan B <honeybunny442 at yahoo.com> on 2011.02.09 at 17:22:51(21924)
The colored Zantedeschia (that's for you, Marek) hybrids should be watered and then let dry out quite a bit. They can't take the water amounts that Aethiopicas can.
Aethiopicas are very happy growing at the edge of water or in a bog, sometimes even in water- the hybrids would rot.

Your friends plant will turn yellow and die back, check the bulb at that point and let it rest for about 6 weeks before starting the growing cycle again.

The hybrids are summer growers, maybe that's why it's a little puny right now. I forget where you live???

--0-1884657229-1297300971=:36839--

HTML

+More

From: <snalice at suddenlink.net> on 2011.02.09 at 17:31:49(21926)
Dear Susan,

Thank you for your response on that. I will try a seach on Arum aethiopica Crowborough. Interesting thought on
varieties and growing conditions. Crowborough probably is Z. aethiopica with a survival nick name tacked to it. I hadn't thought of that. It's pretty well understood that if you want a particular plant to succeed in a particular climate, get a plant that had it's beginnings in that particular climate. So in this case, Z. aethiopica may have acclimated to Crowborough's climate plus happened to be in a perfect situation for survival. It would be interesting to know how wide spread the survival of Z. aethiopica was in Europe the year Crowborough survived. At any rate, thanks for your response.

Susan

HTML

+More

From: "Derek Burch" <derek at horticulturist.com> on 2011.02.12 at 05:40:39(21937)
Susan,

The Koninklijke Algemeene Vereniging voor
Bloembollencultuur (KAVB) is the International
Registration Authority for Zantedeschia. I have not tried to track their list
down on the site, so don’t know if they have been more successful that I
have in trying to get the rest of the family’s cultivars tracked down.

By the way there is nothing hard about “hybrid”
– the product of crossing two related but not identical plants, and “cultivar”
– a single plant that was considered different enough to be worth
slapping a name onto, having tested to see that it comes true when propagated
by any method except seed. These are pretty sloppy definitions that I will not
go to court over, but not too bad. The cultivar name is only “registered”
when it has gone through the process of appearing in a dated print
publication with a description, without that it is really only a trade name or
a label name ( no one can stop you calling a plant growing in your garden by
whatever name you please, but it becomes a little more iffy when it is offered
commercially under a name that has not be “legitimised” [can’t
think of a better word] by registration. The fairly small nuisance of
registering the name, and of the fact that it doesn’t give any protection
except if the industry is willing to do it to “police” itself, may
be the reason that I have not been able to sell the idea of cultivar
registration to the aroid community, much to my chagrin.

Derek

HTML

+More

From: Theodore Held <oppenhauser2001 at gmail.com> on 2011.02.12 at 11:17:34(21942)
>Your friend's plant will turn yellow and die back, check the bulb at that point and let it rest for about 6 weeks before starting the growing cycle again.

>The hybrids are summer growers, maybe that's why it's a little puny right now. I forget where you live???

Susan,

The above remarks leads me to believe that this is what's happening. I
will your advice and let the owner let the plants go dormant for a few
weeks and then fire them up again.

We live in Detroit, but the plant is kept indoors. I believe that
indoor plants will also have a certain seasonal nature. Am I correct?

Ted Held.

+More
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Michael_G=F6tz?= <michaelgoetz at gmx.net> on 2011.02.12 at 11:31:14(21945)
Hi Susan and Derek,

I have a source for Couborough in Germany, Christoph Kruchem,
www.hortensis.de. He also sells "Mr. Martin" (which is said to have giant
blooms, but I've never seen it) and "White Giant".
The latter I have and it is very different from a normal aethopica, making
"giant" leaves spreckled with white and growing very fast even during cold
weather. This variety seems to need no dormancy, I put mine into the
basement (somehow anticipating it would die down) and it just keeps growing
and flowering. I can very much recommend growing it.
Here
http://img25.imageshack.us/i/whitegiant.jpg/
is a pic, I placed the plant outside to give it a little light as it has
been quite warm here (Munich) recently. The pot is 40x40 cm, and a flower is
just coming (sorry for the poor quality of the pic, it's too dark outside to
take good photos).

Michael

+More
From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2011.02.12 at 14:29:27(21948)
Dear Susan,

I live in Poland in zone 6b, so I must dig the tubers out in October and I plant them in April, so they are dormant about 6 months. They grow in the ground in pots while Z. aethiopica grows at the edge of a pond, with all the roots and rhizomes submerged.

Marek

HTML

+More

Note: this is a very old post, so no reply function is available.