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From: Kevin Martyn <martyn at telcomplus.com> on 1997.06.01 at 15:00:58(782)
Does anyone know if Dracunculus vulgare is self-fertile and, if not, =
does anyone have pollen they'd trade. I have three flowers about to =
Also, can anyone recommend some good reference books for beginning =
aroid enthusiasts?

Kevin Martyn

From: plantnut at shadow.net (Dewey Fisk) on 1997.06.01 at 20:00:03(784)
> Also, can anyone recommend some good reference books for beginning =
>aroid enthusiasts?
>Kevin Martyn

Never let it be said that I passed an opportunity to invite someone to join
the IAS. We have 19 years of publishing behind us in Aroideana and there
are articles on just tons of Aroids in this Journal. If you will send me
your snail mail address, I will send you our new booklet which has a
topical index, price list and a Membership Application. Just for general
information, see below....

From: "Mike Bordelon" <Bordelon.Mike at NMNH.SI.EDU> on 1998.10.15 at 18:12:32(2693)
Hi Everybody,

I have 1 year old seedlings of Dracunculus canariensis. Can someone tell
me if this plant goes dormant. I was waiting for them to go dormant
before I pull them out of the pan they are currently growing in. If they
don't go dormant, I will transplant them now.

Thanks in advance

Mike Bordelon

From: Ellen Hornig <hornig at Oswego.EDU> on 1998.10.15 at 21:13:46(2695)
On Thu, 15 Oct 1998, Mike Bordelon wrote:

> Hi Everybody,
> I have 1 year old seedlings of Dracunculus canariensis. Can someone tell
> me if this plant goes dormant. I was waiting for them to go dormant
> before I pull them out of the pan they are currently growing in. If they
> don't go dormant, I will transplant them now.
Mike - since mature tubers of this species are just starting active growth
now (i.e. spikes are pushing up above ground) I'd assume your seedlings
managed to grow right through dormancy, and that you should try to keep
them going now. My more mature tubers are dormant throughout the summer.

An interesting aside: because these get so big (and are horribly
attractive to spider mites) I keep mine in the cyclamen house over the
winter, where a bottom heating system is designed to keep soil temps from
falling below 40F or so. It's undoubtedly cooler than the species likes,
but they survive; the foliage gets frozen from time to time, but sort of
recovers. I think of them as "canaries"; a glance in the door, in
midwinter, at the D. canariensis tells me whether the nighttime temp has
managed to go below freezing. If it has, they look awful - but do
recover, sort of.

Ellen Hornig

From: "Victor G. Soukup" <soukupvg at email.uc.edu> on 1998.10.16 at 16:09:27(2698)
Dracunculus canariensis goes dormant, at least mine do. My three year old
plants have been up about 3 weeks now and are already 2 feet tall.

Regards, Vic

From: "anna haigh" <anabaena at london.com> on 2008.09.19 at 15:33:04(18549)
Dear all,

I have juust bought a Dracunculus vulgaris tuber, which I believe to be hardy where I live in the UK. I just wondered whether anybody had any experience with this and how to get the best out of it.

I'm excited to see how it will do.

All the best,




From: Sheldon Hatheway <sfhatheway at yahoo.com> on 2008.09.20 at 05:36:38(18551)
Dear Anna,

Congratulations on your purchase. Here in Canby, Oregon, USA, zone 7B I grow mine in the ground about 6" deep. They've been in the ground for about 50 years, during which time they have been dug, divided, and moved four times. My soil is sandy so even though it rains a lot during the winter and spring, I have had no problems with rot. I keep them watered during the growing season and don't worry about them after that. My wife mulches everything with leaves and grass clippings which is all the fertilizer they get. At this time they are sporting large, bright orange infructescences which contain hundreds of individual berries, each containing 1-3 seeds. The birds like to eat them when they are thoroughly ripe. Mine only have a very mild odor (either that or my nose is shorting out) and the huge purple inflorescences are so beautiful! I can hardly wait until next summer for them to bloom again.

Best of luck with yours.

Sheldon Hatheway



From: "Helen Johnstone" <hjohnstone at btconnect.com> on 2008.09.20 at 20:11:00(18555)
From: "anna haigh"
Subject: [Aroid-l] Dracunculus
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com

From: "E.Vincent Morano" <ironious2 at yahoo.com> on 2008.09.21 at 19:52:29(18562)
I dont know what you are doing different but mine start waking up in the mid to late winter then flower in the spring and die back by mid to late spring. Is that normal?

--- On Fri, 9/19/08, Sheldon Hatheway wrote:

From: Sheldon Hatheway



From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2008.09.22 at 13:55:14(18566)
The same does my Dracunculus. I store it during winter in a fridge and in December it usually wakes up so I have to take it from the fridge and put near the window. It blooms usually in February and till the spring comes it is already dormant again.

Marek Argent



From: Sheldon Hatheway <sfhatheway at yahoo.com> on 2008.09.22 at 15:46:52(18567)
Don't know about yours. There seems to be some variability in these plants. The only experience I've had with Dracunculus is with the ones I have in the garden. They are all from the same clone that I originally rescued from a deteriorating landscape back in the early 80s. The lady who owned the property said she had gotten it about 20+ years earlier. Mine emerge in late winter/early spring, grow to about 3' tall by mid-summer when they flower. They begin to die back in early fall. Aside from mulching with some grass clippings during the summer, I don't do anything to them.

Sheldon Hatheway



From: Steve Marak <samarak at gizmoworks.com> on 2008.09.23 at 06:02:13(18571)
I've grown Dracunculus vulgaris outdoors here in NW Arkansas, US, for more
than 20 years and it's been surviving on its own in this area for at least
70 years. Doesn't spread on it's own, but established plants seem to be
very tough and survive lots of abuse.

During the time I've grown it, we've had a few -28 C overnight lows and
many +38 C summer days. I don't give it any extra water in summer or mulch
or other protection in winter, but I get inflorescences and seeds every
year. Usually it flowers around the first of June here.

It always comes up earlier here than it should, usually in late February,
and so has to survive a number of hard frosts. My unscientific observation
is that any temperature down to about -6 C will not permanently harm the
foliage, as long as it warms up during the day, but lower temperatures
(such as the disastrous Easter freeze of 2007, which went to -9 C on two
consecutive April nights after weeks of warm weather) will cause serious,
though not fatal, damage.


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