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  hibernation time
From: Lester Kallus lkallus at earthlink.net> on 1969.12.31 at 16:00:00(10657)
Nights here on Long Island are beginning to dip down into the 40s. I understand that this coming Thursday night, it will be somewhere between 42 and 44. I know that Amorphophallus konjac & bulbifer will decide for themselves when to go dormant and so I'm not worried.

I have some paeoniifolius in the ground. They're still looking good. I see three choices:

1. Wait until they begin to show signs of dormancy and then pull them up
2. Dig them up and let them spend sometime in the greenhouse until they go dormant
3. Dig them up, slice the top off, wash the soil off and force dormancy

Any thoughts? I'd prefer to avoid the greenhouse time if possible - it's going to be very crowded in there.

Les

From: "Susan Cooper" coops at execpc.com> on 2003.09.30 at 05:18:13(10662)
Speaking of hibernation, I just dug up my Synandrospadix vermitoxus to
pot it and bring it in the house. There are several cracks in the
bottom of the tuber. I wasn't sure if it did this itself or if it was
from me trying to pry the tuber out of the ground (which was a little
hard).
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From: "Wilbert Hetterscheid" hetter at worldonline.nl> on 2003.09.30 at 08:27:15(10663)
Lester,

Whether you like it or not, but option 2 is the best, then 1.

Cheerio,
Wilbert

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From: "Wilbert Hetterscheid" hetter at worldonline.nl> on 2003.09.30 at 08:32:20(10664)
Happens more often with tuberous aroids. Just let the cracks dry out and all
will be o.k. You may want to put a fungicide on it, if you are afraid of
infection. Check regularly in the beginning of dormancy if the tuber doesn't
dry out along the cracks. Just to make sure.......

Wilbert

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From: "Cooper, Susan L." SLBryant at scj.com> on 2003.09.30 at 09:48:46(10666)
Thanks Wilbert.
Do you know what causes this?
The plant is growing quite well (and even set a seed- 1!)
Susan

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From: "Wilbert Hetterscheid" hetter at worldonline.nl> on 2003.09.30 at 12:48:41(10668)
I honestly haven't got a clue. It almost looks like the tubers "burst" out
of themselves. Like there is more content than skin to hold it.

> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----

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From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at msn.com> on 2003.09.30 at 16:11:24(10669)
Dear Susan,

Just dust it w/ a little fungicide (Captan?) and it should be fine next year, those S. Americans seem to heal pretty well during their dormancy, at least here in Florida.

Julius

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From: "C. J. Addington" cjaddington at earthlink.net> on 2003.09.30 at 18:18:41(10670)
on 9/29/03 16:01, Lester Kallus at lkallus@earthlink.net wrote:

> Nights here on Long Island are beginning to dip down into the 40s. I
> understand that this coming Thursday night, it will be somewhere between 42
> and 44. I know that Amorphophallus konjac & bulbifer will decide for
> themselves when to go dormant and so I'm not worried.
>
> I have some paeoniifolius in the ground. They're still looking good. I see
> three choices:

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From: "C. J. Addington" cjaddington at earthlink.net> on 2003.09.30 at 18:24:36(10671)
on 9/30/03 08:27, Wilbert Hetterscheid at hetter@worldonline.nl wrote:

> Lester,
>
> Whether you like it or not, but option 2 is the best, then 1.
>
> Cheerio,
> Wilbert

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From: "Wilbert Hetterscheid" hetter at worldonline.nl> on 2003.10.01 at 07:59:10(10674)
CJ, why would you rinse off the soil? Why not put it in a pot with the soil
still "attached" and keep on watering and feeding until the leaf starts to
decay?

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From: "C. J. Addington" cjaddington at earthlink.net> on 2003.10.01 at 21:39:21(10676)
on 10/1/03 07:59, Wilbert Hetterscheid at hetter@worldonline.nl wrote:

> CJ, why would you rinse off the soil? Why not put it in a pot with the soil
> still "attached" and keep on watering and feeding until the leaf starts to
> decay?

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From: "Jean-luc Gatard " jlgate at caramail.com> on 2003.10.02 at 05:23:55(10677)
?Susan,

The photo of konjac tuber disease I tried to send to the group present the
same sympthoms with a cracked bottom.
After reflexion and the reading of your message,I'm sharing your posiiton
with a possible origin of excessive watering at the final stage when tuber
rippening;
Curiousely,only extra large tuber seem to be sensible and present this state.
Problems with fungus attack are frequent after harvest and they need to be
regulary controlled during the winter storage.Tuber base look like the skin
of Dioscorea elephantipes.
I will leave them in fungicide bath before storage.
A 13 kg big tuber is seriousely dammaged and had probably loosed weight.
Paeoniifolius are also large,but I never occured this problem.
Jean-Luc

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From: Thomas.Croat at mobot.org on 2003.10.03 at 14:00:48(10681)
Dear Les: I have all mine outside. I wait until the first hard freeze so
they are no longer pretty then dig them up.

Tom

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From: plantguy at zoominternet.net> on 2003.10.04 at 18:35:00(10685)
Hi all, I was wondering if I could ask a slightly different question with
regard to hibermation, i.e., how might I get things started growing more
quickly in the spring? For the most part, my konjac, bulbifer and henryi
are no big problem, but some of my larger paeoniifolius don't get started
until July and then go dormant here in zone 6a (western PA) at the end of
September or early October (we've already had our first hard frost this
year) and so don't have a chance to reabsorb all of last years tuber. I
should say that I do not have a greenhouse and grow all of my Amorphs in
pots. So, I was wondering how I might get them out of dormancy earlier in
the spring? Could you set them on a large heat mat for seed starting and
then once they start to sprout put them in their pots and off they go. I
know it seems an odd request, but any help would be appreciated. Best
regards,

Dan Devor

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