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  Cultivation of Anthurium Warocqueanum ?
From: "Harold Beck" <drewbeck at swbell.net> on 2004.03.24 at 21:05:37(11331)
I have been working with the growing of the Anthurium warocqueanum and A. veitchii for a while - and have had reasonably good luck establishing an acceptable greenhouse environment here in the Houston area (so far). I have a number of plants to work with (thanks to many of you) and have had good new growth after the acclimation period. But I do have a persistent anomaly that I am hoping that some of you experienced growers might be able to help me with. The warocq's develop nice new sizable leaves pretty consistently - but frequently as the new leaf "unfurls" - or "opens" there is a significant weakness in small areas of leaf tissue between the veins - and this weakness develops into a translucent spot that soon develops into a complete perforation - sometimes quite small 2 to 4 mm in diameter - and of course the result is a permanent "blemish" -- and on a few occasions the fault in the new growth is near the main rib and after "opening', the new leaf has a major deformat

From: "Petra Schmidt" <petra at plantdelights.com> on 2004.03.30 at 23:00:31(11341)
Hello Harold,
We used to call this "dry birth", forgive the graffic description...I saw it
on other anthuriums that I used to grow at MoBot years ago and know the
condition you've described is common among anthurium growers. High constant
humidity, especially at the crown of the plant (with good air circulation)
helps keep the cataphylls moist and the newest leaf soft and succulent for
its emergence into the cruel cold world of the greenhouse.
AnthuraSelecties in the Netherlands are wonderful growers of anthurium (also
Eucagenera in Ecuador) so maybe check out their web sites or email them for
On the other hand, if the "spot" is a result of a fungal problem, send a
leaf sample to your state agriculture agency and they can test it. Keep us
posted, ok?

From: Dan Levin <levin at pixar.com> on 2004.03.31 at 01:56:02(11342)
Dear Petra (and Harold),

Indeed, low humidity or even inconsistent humidity can
spoil a developing leaf in record time. A few other causal
agents one might check for (i.e. things or events which have
induced similar damage in my experience):

- Water trapped in the still folded leaf; could induce fungal/
bacterial rot. [avoid misting/ watering late in the day, treat
prophylactically with Dithane M-45 (manganese + zinc, leaves
a residue) or with Phyton-27 (copper chelate- no residue)]

- Contact with other plants, leaves or objects; I've observed
deformations if a developing leaf rubs against or even just
touches another object- spiny bromeliads especially! [keep
new leaf isolated, at least until hardened]

- Excessive air movement; can sever a primary leaf vein which
may result in a tear or perforation [keep developing leaves away
from fans] By the way, this applies even more so to the output
air stream from a forced air furnace/ heater.

- Slugs; as Obi Wan Kenobi once said, "Never underestimate
the dark side of the force...". In truth, he was referring to evil
gastropods- but popular culture misinterpreted his statement.
[you may not see a slime trail & still be plagued... check at night
with a strong flashlight & see what's lurking. I've never had good
luck using only baits in my greenhouse; best is a combination
of baiting and hand elimination inside the greenhouse- and a
dedicated regimen of baiting around the outside perimeter/ points
of entry]

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