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  Eminium lehmanii
From: plantguy at zoominternet.net> on 2005.02.23 at 07:44:26(12723)
Hello fellow aroiders,

I was hoping someone could tell me about Eminium
lehmanii. It has a beautiful maroon-black spathe and so I'm sort of
smitten with it!! I was thinking of getting a couple of these for my
collection, but they are a bit pricey and so I'd like all the information I can
get before committing to a purchase. All I know is the ones being
offered originally came from Uzbekistan. Are these summer
growers?? How much cold can they take?? I live in zone 6a in Western
Pennsylvania and would like to grow them in pots for the summer and then store
them in the house for the winter like an Amorph. Thanks in advance for any
info you can provide.

Dan

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From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at msn.com> on 2005.02.25 at 02:51:55(12729)
>From: <plantguy@zoominternet.net>
>Reply-To: Discussion of aroids <aroid-l@gizmoworks.com>
>To: "Discussion of aroids" <aroid-l@gizmoworks.com>
>Subject: [Aroid-l] Eminium lehmanii
>Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 10:44:26 -0500

Dear Dan,

There is a member in Holland who grows these, ask him (wish I could remember
his e-mail!!). These plants grow and bloom in the 'mild' winter months of
their native land, and go dormant in the VERY hot and dry summer, so may NOT
do well for you unless you do all kinds of 'magic' in your winters or in a
super-controlled inviroment. You may want to hold your $$ until you
manage to obtain more info on these 'tricky' genera. For an impressive
Eminium-like plant with a purple spathe and a horrible smell, which you are
looking for, try Dracunculus, it grows WELL in the USA, sometimes becomming
a weed.
The best, and good growing!!
Julius

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From: plantguy at zoominternet.net> on 2005.02.25 at 20:49:37(12732)
Dear Julius,

Thanks so much! I've found out that they can take extreme cold during the
winter (far colder than my zone 5b/6a), but as you say, they grow in the
spring rainy season and then go dormant during the hot, dry summers and so
need to be kept completely dry for their summer dormancy. I was told that
they are not like Arum which grow throughout the mild winters of their
homeland, but rather have a short growing season in the spring and early
summer. I was thinking of importing a wonderful Trillium kurabayashii and
some species Colchium and Fritillaria anyway so adding this one tuber will
probably only increase my cost by perhaps $35 (pricey for me, but not by
aroid standards). If you can remember the name of the grower in Holland who
grows these please pass his e-mail along to me. I could not receive the
tuber until next fall so I have plenty of time to try and do my homework
with the help of the aroid-o-philes here!!

Dan

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From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.02.25 at 23:26:21(12734)
Dan,
My Arum nigrum, just gotten new leaves this month, will bloom soon with an impressive nearly black flower. Hardy here over several winters.
The Dracunculus vulgaris (original plants now much divided) are showing their snakeskin patterned noses just above the snow now.

Bonaventure

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From: "Derek Burch" derek at horticulturist.com> on 2005.02.26 at 03:25:56(12735)
Did anyone notice the cover picture of last year's Aroideana? That would
give a clue as to one member who grows them successfully. Derek

_______________________________________________

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From: Johnbalva at aol.com on 2005.02.26 at 04:52:51(12736)
Dan, if you want a huge black spathe you can't do better than Typhonium
pedunculatum and it grows like a weed.
_______________________________________________
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From: plantguy at zoominternet.net> on 2005.02.26 at 08:39:37(12738)
Thank you all for the replies!!! John, I'd love to try a
Typhonium if you can maybe let me know where I might acquire one of these
beauties!! Bonaventure: Do you suppose that Arum would be hardy here
in my zone 5b/6a garden?? I've stayed away from the Arum for the most
part because of their desire to grow when I do not want them to! Ron,
of course, if I end up getting a couple to have a whirl with I would be happy to
get one or two for you as well :o)

Thanks again everyone and I'm happy to say spring is almost
here....of course I just shoveled 5 inches of snow off my driveway, so it is not
here just yet!

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From: "A. L. Clement" al.clement at planet.nl> on 2005.02.26 at 12:35:19(12739)
Dear Dan

I have about four Eminium species in my collection at this moment.
A few years ago I acquired my first E. lehmannii tuber and it found it
difficult to keep them alive. Over the years I have perfected my cultivation
technique for this genus and I have some success with them now. At this
moment I have even a surplus of Eminium tubers.
I live in the Netherlands And I think that they will survive the
temperatures outside -10 degrees Celsius but the problem is the
amount of rain in the winter, they like to grow dry. I therefore grow my
plants in a just frost free greenhouse it sometimes even freezes a few
degrees inside. They also require a lot of light to insure robust growing
and minimize the change of rot.
I grow them in clay pots with a good
draining soil. I repot the plants every year in new soil around
august, that is usually the time that the roots start to grow. After
repotting
I give them a little bit of water and than no water till I see the plant
appear
above the soil, this is usually around October/November. Then I increase the
watering but I still keep them
dry,
in the winter I sometimes water them one's in two months. They grow very
slow
in the first few months around January they usually have only one leaf but
in February when the temperature rises they really start to grow at this
moment I have plants with 6 leafs. At this time I give them more water one's
every two weeks but they soil still have to dry up before I water them
again, it is better to give them a lot of water one time than small bits
frequently. When it gets warmer I also have to give more water around May I
sometimes have to water them 2 times a week, but still the soil has to dry
up before I water them again. And last year I had for the first time
flowering plants and not
only one inflorescence but 5 from two different species they flowered around
May. And in June they start to die I stop watering them and allow the soil
to dry
out completely. After the plants has died down I take the tubers out of the
soil and take of the old tuber remains under the new tuber. This still
contains a lot of water and this can start rotting and that can also infect
the new tuber.
I check than the soil in the pot, it must be almost dry and than I place the
tuber back in the old soil. All the summer I keep the pots on the hot
side of the glass house where the temperature can go as high as 30 degrees
Celsius. And around august I repot them again, for the next season.
I don't give them
fertilizer the new soils contains enough nutrients.

I hope that this will help

Arno Clement

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From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.02.28 at 12:07:11(12743)
Dear Dan and others afflicted with Aroidopathy,

Don't know if my Typhonium gigantea(?) will make it thru the winter, but T. venosum and Arum italicum are weeds here, increasing every year. Arum maculatum and concinium get their leaves trashed every winter but make up with spring growth and blooming. Just moved my Arum creticum and dioscoroides to under lights, they were getting weaker every year. Arum purpureospathum is one of the most tender I've ever (attempted to) have grown but nigrum is a real trooper, waiting till spring to put up leaves, and of course, its stinky black blooms.

Bonaventure Magrys

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From: plantguy at zoominternet.net> on 2005.02.28 at 16:46:06(12744)
Dear Arno,

Thank you for the excellent information and the fantastic pics. The spathe
looks almost velvety!! I'm sure I will venture a try at one based on the
theory that you can not learn if you are unwilling to try and with the extra
cultural info I'll surely be better prepared. Thanks again everyone for all
of the input and good growing this spring :o)

Dan

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