Culture information

From: Kyle Baker kylefletcherbaker at yahoo.com> on 2005.09.22 at 11:29:04(13376) Good Morning Folk's, I'm the proud new parent of several arum's graciously gifted by Mr. M.C. Hammer of this group...and I was rather beside myself with excitement to receive them but now to culture...sigh.....I'm wading through pages of websites for culture and not really finding any Here's the List and pertinent information have +More Arum concinnatum dioscoides hygrophilum orientale sintesii I'm in Maine and our growing season is March - Sept. Last Frost April 15th, First Frost around Oct 20th Indoor growing areas are 8 x 12' glassed in porch southeast exposure minimum night temp 60* Day temps usually around 70-80* during winter Water is around a pH of 6.5 I fertilize with a Dyna-Gro 7-9-5 formula I understand that they (Arums) need a Dormancy but when do they gro and when do they sleep? and is there a reaclimization period from whence they came in Nederland? Th'x to all from a novice who honestly wants to learn and needs to learn.. kfb - maine zone 5 __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: "C. J. Addington" cjaddington at earthlink.net> on 2005.09.23 at 00:20:49(13377) Hi Kyle and Everyone! The genus Arum is my personal favorite genus, and my rather time-consuming hobby, so I thought I would throw in my two cents on growing them (which may be about all it's worth!). Of the 26 or so "good" species, I am currently growing 23 of them. (I can't quite get hold of A. hainesii, A. idaeum or A. jacquemontii, so if anyone has them, or knows where to get them, I'd love to talk to you!) Overall, Arums are classic Mediterranean summer-dormant plants. They start pushing out roots in late summer/early fall (in other words, right now), grow lushly all winter, bloom in the spring, and go totally dormant in the heat of summer. They like good drainage, and gritty, alkaline soil. If your soil or water are acidic ( pH less than 7.0 ) they will really benefit from a liberal application of ground limestone or dolomite. Most hate soggy conditions (the exception being A. hygrophilum ), and most prefer some fairly strong sunlight in the winter for best blooming. A. italicum and A. maculatum will take deeper shade, but A. dioscoridis, sintenisii and orientale really want to be out in the sun. All species will really respond well to heavy feeding, especially with something rich in phosphorus, like bone meal. During the summer, most need to go pretty much totally dry to avoid rotting, and the dormant tubers can in fact be stored naked and un-potted like potatoes. In Maine, I would predict that many of these will have to be strictly indoor plants. They are winter-growers, but in a mild Mediterranean climate where it rarely drops below freezing. I am fortunate that I am growing my little guys here in the Sacramento Valley of California ( zone 9 ), since it hardly ever freezes here, and our summers are long, bone dry and brutally hot, which they love. Overall, the closer you can mimic a long dry summer and a mild wet winter, the bigger and better ( and stinkier! ) your Arums will be. Hope that helps, and if others are growing these beauties, I'd love to hear what you are doing with them, and how they are doing! Cheers, C.J. Addington +More Citrus Heights, California on 09/22/2005 04:29, Kyle Baker at kylefletcherbaker@yahoo.com wrote: > > Good Morning Folk's, > > I'm the proud new parent of several arum's graciously > gifted by Mr. M.C. Hammer of this group...and I was > rather beside myself with excitement to receive them > but now to culture...sigh.....I'm wading through pages > of websites for culture and not really finding any > > Here's the List and pertinent information > > have > > Arum > concinnatum > dioscoides > hygrophilum > orientale > sintesii > > I'm in Maine and our growing season is March - Sept. > > Last Frost April 15th, First Frost around Oct 20th > > Indoor growing areas are 8 x 12' glassed in porch > southeast exposure minimum night temp 60* > > Day temps usually around 70-80* during winter > > Water is around a pH of 6.5 > > I fertilize with a Dyna-Gro 7-9-5 formula > > I understand that they (Arums) need a Dormancy but > when do they gro and when do they sleep? and is there > a reaclimization period from whence they came in > Nederland? > > Th'x to all from a novice who honestly wants to > learn and needs to learn.. > > > kfb - maine zone 5 > > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 > http://mail.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-l mailing list > Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: Kyle Baker kylefletcherbaker at yahoo.com> on 2005.09.23 at 12:06:46(13378) --- "C. J. Addington" wrote: > Hi Kyle and Everyone! The genus Arum is my +More personal favorite genus, and my rather time-consuming hobby, so I thought I would throw in my two cents on growing them (which may be about all it's worth!). Of the 26 or so "good" species, I am currently growing 23 of them. (I can't quite get hold of A. hainesii, A. idaeum or A. jacquemontii, so if anyone has them, or knows where to get them, I'd love to talk to you!) <<<<<>>>>> Overall, Arums are classic Mediterranean summer-dormant plants. They start pushing out roots in late summer/early fall (in other words, right now), grow lushly all winter, bloom in the spring, and go totally dormant in the heat of summer. << pushing up through the surface of the soil, so now I can mark them accordingly summer dormant!!!>>>>>> They like good drainage, and gritty, alkaline soil. If your soil or water are acidic ( pH less than 7.0 ) they will really benefit from a liberal application of ground limestone or dolomite. Most hate soggy conditions (the exception being A. hygrophilum ), and most prefer some fairly strong sunlight in the winter for best blooming. A. italicum and A. maculatum will take deeper shade, but A. dioscoridis, sintenisii and orientale really want to be out in the sun. <<< know of their size this year (Forgot to mention Tubers are size of marbles)In a locally made organic Compost Potting soil made with Lobster Shells and Fish remnants..plus alot of extra perlite(I have around 40 Sansevierias.. so I've learned about drainage)...plus there's a bit of eggshell thrown in from the kitchen. I don't have ground limestone on hand but do have Limestone grit and perhaps topdressing the pots would help or incorporating it into the soil? As far as watering its once weekly whether they need it or not and they'll be grown inside of my 8 x 12' glassed in porch with the best south-easterly exposure as I'm literally 30' from the edge of the water and the only oak tree in between of course is deciduous....>>>>>>> All species will really respond well to heavy feeding, especially with something rich in phosphorus, like bone meal. During the summer, most need to go pretty much totally dry to avoid rotting, and the dormant tubers can in fact be stored naked and un-potted like potatoes. << soil and the Dyna - Gro shall keep them going well, I've access to Osmocote as well a 8-9 month though I can't remember the formulation...Running dry is not a problem as most of the plants go outside and that'll be one thing less to have to worry about!!!>>>>>>> In Maine, I would predict that many of these will have to be strictly indoor plants. They are winter-growers, but in a mild Mediterranean climate where it rarely drops below freezing. I am fortunate that I am growing my little guys here in the Sacramento Valley of California ( zone 9 ), since it hardly ever freezes here, and our summers are long, bone dry and brutally hot, which they love. <<<< and now that their dormancy cycle is known...kept indoors for their life as we're about to get our first frost any day now night temps are around 40-50 and the cool growing orchids are starting to spike I've noticed so I shan't be puttting them in jeopardy anytime soon!!>>>>>>> Overall, the closer you can mimic a long dry summer and a mild wet winter, the bigger and better ( and stinkier! ) your Arums will be. Hope that helps, and if others are growing these beauties, I'd love to hear what you are doing with them, and how they are doing! > > Cheers, > C.J. Addington > Citrus Heights, California << information, perhaps once I get a camera working again and these beauties rise up and show their faces, I'll endeavor to post pics... Regards Kyle Fletcher-Baker, MCN Yarmouth Maine zone 5 __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.09.23 at 19:46:10(13379) Arum jacquemontii is the old name for Arisaema jacquemontii. Bonaventure Magrys +More Cliffwood Beach, NJ zone 7 _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: Gusman Guy ggusman at ulb.ac.be> on 2005.09.24 at 11:13:12(13380) I am afraid there is some confusion as Arum jacquemontii Blume does exist. It is the only Himalayan species of Arum. See Pete's book on The Genus Arum, pp. 137-140. Nothing to do with Arisaema jacquemontii Blume. Unfortunately, I cannot help you find a commercial source as I don't know where it could be found in cultivation. Best wishes. Guy Gusman +More > >--- "C. J. Addington" >wrote: > >> Hi Kyle and Everyone! The genus Arum is my >personal favorite genus, and my rather time-consuming >hobby, so I thought I would throw in my two cents on >growing them (which may be about all it's worth!). Of >the 26 or so "good" species, I am currently growing 23 >of them. (I can't quite get hold of A. hainesii, A. >idaeum or A. jacquemontii, so if anyone has them, or >knows where to get them, I'd love to talk to you!) > ><<<<<>>>>> > > > Overall, Arums are classic Mediterranean >summer-dormant plants. They start pushing out roots in >late summer/early fall (in other words, right now), >grow lushly all winter, bloom in the spring, and go >totally dormant in the heat of summer. > ><< >pushing up through the surface of the soil, so now I >can mark them accordingly summer dormant!!!>>>>>> > > > >They like good drainage, and gritty, alkaline soil. If >your soil or water are acidic ( pH less than 7.0 ) >they will really benefit from a liberal application of >ground limestone or dolomite. Most hate soggy >conditions (the exception being A. hygrophilum ), and >most prefer some fairly strong sunlight in the winter >for best blooming. A. italicum and A. maculatum will >take deeper shade, but A. dioscoridis, sintenisii and >orientale really want to be out in the sun. > > > ><<< >know of their size this year (Forgot to mention Tubers >are size of marbles)In a locally made organic Compost >Potting soil made with Lobster Shells and Fish >remnants..plus alot of extra perlite(I have around 40 >Sansevierias.. so I've learned about drainage)...plus >there's a bit of eggshell thrown in from the kitchen. >I don't have ground limestone on hand but do have >Limestone grit and perhaps topdressing the pots would >help or incorporating it into the soil? As far as >watering its once weekly whether they need it or not >and they'll be grown inside of my 8 x 12' glassed in >porch with the best south-easterly exposure as I'm >literally 30' from the edge of the water and the only >oak tree in between of course is deciduous....>>>>>>> > > All species will really respond well to heavy > feeding, especially with something rich in >phosphorus, like bone meal. During the summer, most >need to go pretty much totally dry to avoid rotting, >and the dormant tubers can in fact be stored naked and >un-potted like potatoes. > ><< >soil and the Dyna - Gro shall keep them going well, >I've access to Osmocote as well a 8-9 month though I >can't remember the formulation...Running dry is not a >problem as most of the plants go outside and that'll >be one thing less to have to worry about!!!>>>>>>> > > > In Maine, I would predict that many of these will >have to be strictly indoor plants. They are >winter-growers, but in a mild Mediterranean climate >where it rarely drops below freezing. I am fortunate >that I am growing my little guys here in the >Sacramento Valley of California ( zone 9 ), since it >hardly ever freezes here, and our summers are long, >bone dry and brutally hot, which they love. > ><<<< >and now that their dormancy cycle is known...kept >indoors for their life as we're about to get our first >frost any day now night temps are around 40-50 and the >cool growing orchids are starting to spike I've >noticed so I shan't be puttting them in jeopardy >anytime soon!!>>>>>>> > > Overall, the closer you can mimic a long dry >summer and a mild wet winter, the bigger and better ( >and stinkier! ) your Arums will be. Hope that helps, >and if others are growing these beauties, I'd love to >hear what you are doing with them, and how they are >doing! >> >> Cheers, >> C.J. Addington >> Citrus Heights, California > > ><< >information, perhaps once I get a camera working again >and these beauties rise up and show their faces, I'll >endeavor to post pics... > >Regards >Kyle Fletcher-Baker, MCN >Yarmouth Maine zone 5 > > > >__________________________________ >Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 >http://mail.yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Aroid-l mailing list >Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com >http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l > > _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

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