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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
From: James jamesms_55 at yahoo.com> on 2005.12.19 at 06:21:25(13625)
For those of you who have taken amorphs through a
winter, I have a situation that to me, seems like it
shouldn't be happening. I have several A.
paeonifolius, konjac and bulbifer outdoors, under
shade and after a number of nights down to the mid 20s
and many more down to 30s with frost on the ground
outside of the shade tunnel, they look like they're
doing fine. I expected them to go dormant by now but
apparently they have other ideas. Any thoughts as to
what I should do for them? I have cut back on
watereven though the growth has not yellowed yet.
They are growing under 50% shade, in a 20x50x12'high
hoop house with no ends and they are at the extreme
north end at the opening. I'd really hate to lose the
big 10+ lb konjac and 4-5lb paeonifolius to rot due to
cold. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
From: Brian Williams pugturd at alltel.net> on 2005.12.19 at 21:35:45(13632)
I have over wintered both paeonifolius and Konjac here in Zone6 with
just heavy mulching. I would think your protective hoop house will help
block most the wind and keep out the rain which drainage is very
important during this time. I believe a good mulching around the base of
the plants could be very helpful in keeping them from rotting. I would
suggest 6 to 10 inches of hard wood easy to rot mulch. Another thing to
take note of is for me at least large konjacs seem to rot easily when
kept outside. Not only this they also seem to multiply more meaning that
one large tuber may become 2 or more tubers after a hard winter. I find
that if I dig them up and keep them in door this does not happen. I
believe it maybe that the center growth point may get damaged during
winter and cause the tuber to want to split into more. Also keeping the
smaller tubers off keeps the larger tuber from spreading its energy into
smaller off shoots.
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