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Help - Amorph disease
From: "Agoston Janos" agoston.janos at citromail.hu> on 2006.07.10 at 11:27:02(14406)|
I can understand your problem, becouse one year I lost all of
But I also would like to correct you. Erwinia carotovora is in
all natural soils which were not disinfected by heat.
This bacteria attacks the tubers when the soil is soggy and
anaerob (= without air). The second thing is what I saw is this bacteris usally
attacks the tissues at the top of the tuber, where the leafs attach. And for the
leaves it is going upward.
I also contacted with a dutch Zantedeschia breeder, who told
me that Z. aethiopica is resistant to this kind of rot, because it grows in
marshes. So you may try these varieties, becous you may have better luck. I was
able to rot hese tubers too, but before rotting they became infected with a
fungus, perhaps Pythium. This fungus loves wet conditions, the sympthomes are
smelly rot and melting as Erwinia, but you can kill this with strobilurines as
azoxistrobin (Amistar, Quadris).
----- Original Message -----
To: Discussion of aroids
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 4:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Help - Serious
spreading Amorph disease
Hi Adam,I lost my entire crop of konjacs to this about
5 yearsago. It affected the konjacs while other Amorphsright
next to them had no problems!I've also lost a significant amount of
Zantedeschia tosoft rot/Erwinia 2 years ago. The plants looked
justfine, until suddenly they toppled over at the base. The petioles
looked like they melted. I've also seenit affect cut flowers- the
plant looked fine, theflower was picked and put into water in a
vase. Thenext day the petiole would have literally dissolvedall
the way up to the spathe, which would look OK fora little while and then
it too would start to "melt".My soft rot/Erwinia, which, by the way, I
understandis two different diseases but work together; seemeddifferent
from your plant's symptoms. First, the rot would progress up the
petiole or downto the tuber. I could pull the bloom and leaves
rightout of the ground with no effort. Second, it has avery
awful, rotten, stinky smell. The tubers wouldalso be affected, with
large sections rotting off. Erwinia is a bacterial disease (if I
remembercorrectly), it is very contagious and can be carriedon feet
from one site to another. Phyton 20, a copperbased formula, is said
to prevent it, but bulbs mustbe sprayed before planting. I believe
if it affectsan area you are not supposed to use that soil
againbecause it is infected.I did rescue a few of my tubers that
weren't too badlyaffected, I used a water hose to vigorously spray
themuntil all the mush washed away. Then I dried thetubers in
the sun/ air as much as possible. Some ofthem were viable the next
year, I only had about 3plants with it last year as opposed to maybe a
hundredthe year before.Truly a heartbreaking disease. I wish
you luck withit. Since your tubers seem to be OK, you may
havesome other disease or pest going on....Susan B
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From: Susan B honeybunny442 at yahoo.com> on 2006.07.11 at 02:25:09(14412)|
Thank you for your corrections Jani,
and I have one of my own! It is Phyton 27, not 20!
Aethiopica is (supposedly) a winter grower here,
although I have several in bloom now.
I didn't think my soil was that bad, the tubers were
in the ground, not pots.
thanks for the additional info!
--- Agoston Janos wrote:
> Dear Susan,
> I can understand your problem, becouse one year I
> lost all of my Zantedeschias.
> But I also would like to correct you. Erwinia
> carotovora is in all natural soils which were not
> disinfected by heat.
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