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  Growing Anthurium from seeds
From: Philip McGrew <philipmcgrew at gmail.com> on 2009.01.24 at 23:33:39(18967)
Hello,
This is my first go at growing Anthuriums from seeds. Anyone have any helpful advice, tips or tricks they would like to share?
Or even possible share their techniques and or set ups. Indoors outdoors greenhouse etc.
Also Germination time and percent rate.
I have 3 different Sp. I was going to try.
Thanks Philip
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From: "Betsy Feuerstein" <ecuador10 at comcast.net> on 2009.01.25 at 10:26:02(18971)
First of all, if you have the seed, get them planted. These are not long delay seeds. There are as many ways to do anthurium seeds as there are attempters. I have grown and am growing many thousands of anthurium seeds. Some do great. Others are a pain in the petute...lucky to get one out of 100 and others, you could forget. Growing anthurium cutucuense was impossible for me. Got them up to about one inch and that was that no matter what conditions I put them under. Now realize this is a fairly high altitude specie and that may have been the cause of my challenge.

I put my seeds down in clear plastic sweater boxes from the Container Store. I use regular potting soil. I label to the best of my ability where the seed came from or whom and what I know about the specie. I grow on growing tables under lights. Usually I get good results, but there are times, forget it. Unfortunately, usually those are the ones I really wanted. There was an article in Aroideana some time back where people gave their way of growing. Maybe someone can remember what issue that was to be helpful. I put Saran wrap over the top to keep moisture around. Different species germinate at different speeds.

Some do the community pots and put a piece of glass over them. I have a friend who puts damp newspaper over her seeds and then removes it when the seeds have sprouted. She grows in a greenhouse. Some just use sphagnum moss as the medium. Others use sterile soilless medium.

As you see, so many options. Use what you have, do as you would other seeds and watch. Maybe others will chime in with their ways of growing anthurium seeds.

Betsy

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From: "Windy Aubrey" <exotics at hawaii.rr.com> on 2009.01.25 at 11:45:48(18972)
Hi Philip,

I'd be more than happy to share what I know and do.

I've been propagating Anthuriums from seed for several years now and can give you some surefire tips to getting you seeds going strong.

As a matter of fact I wrote an article for the Aroid newsletter, but haven't submitted it yet.

I can forward this unpublished article to you. Send me your email address and I will attach it to a message.

My email address is exotics@hawaii.rr.com

Windy

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From: "derek burch" <dburch23 at bellsouth.net> on 2009.01.25 at 17:01:07(18979)
Aroideana would have been glad to have it last year with allthe others on this topic! But I would still like to consider it. Derek derek@horticulturist.com

-----Original Message-----
From: aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com[mailto:aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com] OnBehalf Of Windy Aubrey

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From: hermine <hermine at endangeredspecies.com> on 2009.01.25 at 17:12:23(18980)
At 10:26 AM 1/25/2009, Betsy Feuerstein wrote:

First of all, if you have the seed,get them planted. These are not long delay seeds. There are as many waysto do anthurium seeds as there are attempters. I have grown and amgrowing many thousands of anthurium seeds. Some do great. Others are apain in the petute...lucky to get one out of 100 and others, you couldforget. Growing anthurium cutucuense was impossible for me. Got them upto about one inch and that was that no matter what conditions I put themunder. Now realize this is a fairly high altitude specie and thatmay have been the cause of my challenge.

this is pretty much my experience with all seeds and fern spores too. themost important thing is fertile seed/spore, and after than a combo ofcleanliness, by which i mean a growing condition uncontaminated by thingswhich would or could or will overgrow the seed. for me this used to bealgae, the bane of filmy fern cultivation. the only other thing isto remove anything with mildew. and warmth. humidity. after that itis one big crapshoot. I just reluctantly threw out some seed which hadbeen sitting on top of the computer with a temperature monitor strip, itjust got so far and overnight, all the seed turned to white furry ballsof MUSH. this was from a caudiciform Madagascan tree. Sobbingand rending of garments.

Soon i am going to lightly sandpaper some seed, and pour boiling water onit and let it sit for 24 hours. before planting it. It seems i hardlyplant anything lately without some violence, setting it on fire, toastingit in the oven, or taking a file to it savagely.

hermine

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From: "Windy Aubrey" <exotics at hawaii.rr.com> on 2009.01.26 at 09:45:46(18989)
Now that I have a little time let me give a brief instruction to how I grow my Anthuriums from seed for anyone out there who also might be interested in do so.

I have never been disappointed with this method and have extremely good luck getting my seedlings up and eventually into pots, no matter which species I have tried.

First thing is you will want to remove the capsule from the seed. If the capsule is left on, this can produce mold. The capsule will also slow down the germination process.

I like to squeeze the capsule into a cup of water, so the seed sink and anything else floats and can be removed.

Also, if you don't intend on planting immediately you can leave the seeds submerged in the water to retain their freshness for a period of time.

The next thing I do is I get a clear container with a snap top lid. I like to use the plastic boxes that some salads come in, but any similar type container will work.

I poke a few hole in the bottom to drain any excess moisture. I use the tip of a hot glue gun to melt the hole through, but anyway to poke a hole to allow some drainage will take care of this function.

Then for my medium I use New Zealand sphagnum moss. I chop this moss up very fine so it is no longer long and fibrous, but soft and fluffy. Use scissors or a blender to perform this step.

I feel this type of 'bog' sphagnum is part of the key to my success as it is nature's original Neosporin and wards off any bacteria and fungus from developing.

To this fine and fluffy moss I add some 'small' (#1 grade) sponge rock (perolite) and also some agricultural or hardwood charcoal broken into fine pieces. Do NOT use charcoal briquettes. You can also use aquarium charcoal.

You don't need very much only a slight scattering to the other two ingredients. So the mix would be something like 3 parts moss, 1 part sponge rock (perolite), and a good peppering of charcoal.

Mix this together and fill the clear plastic container 1/3 full, then pat the medium down slightly to make a bed. After the container is filled, I slightly moisten the top of the medium down with good water. Use bottled water if your water is poor quality or salty. This will keep the seeds from going below the surface of the medium.

Next I pour off the top water that the seeds are resting in to remove any foreign particles and add fresh bottled water to re-submerge the seeds.

Then I scoop out the seeds with some of the water, using a spoon or scooper and place the seed on the surface of the medium.

It is very important not to bury the seeds, but only let them lay on the top of the moss exposed. Remember, do not bury or cover the seeds at all!

You can also pour off the majority of the water in the holding container and then pour the seeds out on to the medium surface. Just be careful not to pour too rapidly or the seeds will all end up in a pile, and the excess water will make a well in the moss, sometimes placing the seeds below the medium surface.

Next, place the snap top lid over the container and place the container in a warm shady place. Do not place in the sun, but give it light.

I do not think a greenhouse is necessary, because the container it's self becomes it's own growing environment.

After a few days you will notice the seeds beginning to turn green and plump up. Soon after you will see the tap root develop, and then your on you way.

In no time the first leaf will emerge. At this point I move the contain to a slightly brighter spot, but still keeping it away from any sun.

Once the seedlings reach the top of the container I removed the snap top lid slightly to acclimate the seedlings, then a few days later remove them and pot them into a small pot.

For their first planting I use this same medium, but I add another part of the sponge rock and one part of seedling bark the orchid grower's use.

I hope this quick run down helps any and all who enjoy propagating.

Windy

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From: "Carol McCarthy" <Carol.McCarthy at mail.wvu.edu> on 2009.01.30 at 16:23:10(19002)
Wow Windy,

I thought the description was good but the pictures just took this over the top. Thank you. That was very informative.

Carol M.

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From: "Windy Aubrey" <exotics at hawaii.rr.com> on 2009.01.31 at 14:40:57(19013)
Thanks Carol,

It's good to hear it made some sense.

I hope you put the method to work and grow some plants too.

Windy

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