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From: GeoffAroid <GeoffAroid at aol.com> on 1998.05.26 at 05:55:26(2189)|
To those who replied regarding my mystery plants many thanks, especially to
Maurice Hinterding who suggested it might be Anchomanes hookeri which has the
green-brown bands I described. I am trying to contact the original supplier of
the plants (Hans Hvissers at the Free University Botanic Garden) to confirm if
this species was present next to the Anchomanes difformis he gave me, but
until I hear from him I am posting two pics on my ftp site and these can be
http://members.aol.com/dgiscience/mystery.gif and mystery2.gif
It is a striking and beautiful species with very glossy leaves and I am
immensely pleased to have it!
From: Al Wootten <awootten at NRAO.EDU> on 1998.05.26 at 08:04:09(2191)|
> Dear all,
> To those who replied regarding my mystery plants many thanks, especially to
> Maurice Hinterding who suggested it might be Anchomanes hookeri which has the
> green-brown bands I described. I am trying to contact the original supplier of
> the plants (Hans Hvissers at the Free University Botanic Garden) to confirm if
> this species was present next to the Anchomanes difformis he gave me, but
> until I hear from him I am posting two pics on my ftp site and these can be
> viewed on:
> http://members.aol.com/dgiscience/mystery.gif and mystery2.gif|
> It is a striking and beautiful species with very glossy leaves and I am
> immensely pleased to have it!
I have a few specimens of Anchomanes hookeri which Phil Mueller sent me
some years ago. Mine have not shown banding such as I see at your
WWW site. I think I may have photos of mine somewhere which I can scan
and put on my WWW site. At the moment, it is putting up new leaves and
the only remaining ones are somewhat tattered, so I can't take a new one
|Al Wootten, Slacktide, Sturgeon Creek at the Rappahannock|
|Astronomer (http://www.cv.nrao.edu/~awootten/) |
|genealogy homepage http://members.tripod.com/~astral |
|Deltaville, Virginia (804)776-6369 |
From: plantnut at macconnect.com (Dewey Fisk) on 1999.05.31 at 20:28:29(3408)|
Does anyone know? Has anyone ever tried it? ..... Can the rhizome or
tuber of Anchomanes be devided? I have a couple of large ones that I would
like to break up. When they get into a 7 gallon pot size.... that is
getting bigger than I need in one pot.
Dewey E. Fisk, Plant Nut|
THE PHILODENDRON PHREAQUE
Your Source for Tropical Araceae
From: "Harry Witmore" harrywitmore at witmore.net> on 2002.10.03 at 16:52:32(9486)|
I just received my seeds from Wilbert(Thank You, Thank You) and wanted to
ask one question. Should they be treated like Amorph seeds? I planted the
entire berry lat time and wondered if I should have removed them from the
berry. I don't think this has been a topic before. I searched all of my
notes and turned up nothing. I do know they are sometimes slow to germinate.
Cloud Jungle Art|
From: Paul Tyerman ptyerman at ozemail.com.au> on 2002.10.03 at 20:15:44(9488)|
At 07:52 3/10/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I just received my seeds from Wilbert(Thank You, Thank You) and wanted to
>ask one question. Should they be treated like Amorph seeds? I planted the
>entire berry lat time and wondered if I should have removed them from the
>berry. I don't think this has been a topic before. I searched all of my
>notes and turned up nothing. I do know they are sometimes slow to germinate.
In Wilbert's email on this a while ago, he included some germination
suggestions. I've put these in below for people in case they didn't save
the original message. It doesn't answer your query about the berry or just
the seed explicitly, but I would read it myself as the seed rather than the
berry. From memory some pulp actually has germination inhibitors within it
which are usually stripped off by the intestinal tract of the bird who eats
the bright coloured berries. Am I correct Wilbert?
******** Wilbert's Information *************
As to germination, I have better data now than the first time: sow the seeds
upon arrival in a sandy mixture (about 1 cm under the surface) and keep it
moderately moist (this is a species of dry soils). The first shoots here
came up about 2 - 3 months after sowing, so a little patience is in order.
You may want to carefully check the seeds every two weeks because they are
susceptible do rot and bad ones better be separated from the good ones
whenever possible. A long root is developed first before the shoot appears.
I hope this is of some help to people.
Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9
Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus,
Cyrtanthus, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything
else that doesn't move!!!!!
From: "Wilbert Hetterscheid" hetter at worldonline.nl> on 2002.10.03 at 22:05:54(9490)|
I myself have sown them without the berry itself. There are contradictory
rumours about this. Some say that the berry flesh contains germination
inhibitors. Others say it contains natural fungicides. I know, this doesn't
help but to answer Paul, I am really not aware of scientific papers dealing
with this. Is there somebody on this list that may provide references to
I have sown Amorphs with and without berry flesh and never noticed any
relevant difference. The one fear I would have is that when the flesh rots
and we're talking large seeds with big embryos or lots of endosperm, rotting
is likely to be a danger. Therefore I removed the flesh of the Anchomanes
seeds. But it is all a bit conjectural.
Glad to hear, though, that the seeds seem to be arriving.
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----|
> Van: firstname.lastname@example.org
> [mailto:email@example.com]Namens Harry Witmore
> Verzonden: vrijdag 4 oktober 2002 1:53
> Aan: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Onderwerp: [aroid-l] Anchomanes
> I just received my seeds from Wilbert(Thank You, Thank You)
> and wanted to
> ask one question. Should they be treated like Amorph seeds? I
> planted the
> entire berry lat time and wondered if I should have removed
> them from the
> berry. I don't think this has been a topic before. I searched
> all of my
> notes and turned up nothing. I do know they are sometimes
> slow to germinate.
> Harry Witmore
> Cloud Jungle Art
From: "D. Christopher Rogers" crogers at ecoanalysts.com> on 2006.10.20 at 09:18:51(14753)|
I am new to the list, and I look forward to learning from the various
discussions herein. My interests lie primarily with the tuberous aroids although
I have a soft spot for Alocasias. I mostly grow Arum, Arisema, Dracunculus,
Helicodiceros, Amorphophallus, Anchomanes, Typhonium, Gonatopus, and the like.
I am looking for Biarum, Arisarum, and Eminium.
Anyway, here are my first questions: I was given a plant recently that
appears to be a young Anchomanes. It is only about 60 cm tall. It has the
typical tuber, spiny petioled, dracontioid leaf, and the slowly dividing
pinnae. The petiole is purplish green, with a pale spot above each spine. Is
there any way to identify the species at this stage or do I have to wait until
it matures and flowers? Are there specific characters that I should look for? Three
species are listed on the IAS web site, are there more? I have A. difformis,
and it differs from the specimen at hand in having a green petiole.
Any information, citations, references would be helpful.
Thanks in advance,
AUTOTEXTLIST \s "E-mail|
Signature" D. Christopher Rogers
166 Buckeye Street
Woodland CA 95695 USA
● Invertebrate Taxonomy
● Invertebrate Ecological Studies
● Bioassessment and Study Design
● Endangered Invertebrate Species
● Periphyton/ Phytoplankton
Moscow, ID ● Bozeman, MT ● Woodland, CA ● Neosho, MO ●
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