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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
Propagation by Leaf Cutting
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From: "James W. Waddick" jim-jim at swbell.net> on 1999.09.13 at 15:53:45(3648)
Dear All;
Recalling the success in propagating some Amorphophallus from a
leaf cutting, I wonder how common (or possible) this method of propagation
is in aroids. Can one propagate Alocasia, Colocasia, Anthurium etc. ?
Anyone ever attempt this or have success ?
Curious to hear methods and successes as well as failures.
In Amorphophallus the leaf is cut with a short or no petiole and
the area between the petiole and the leaf blade is just covered in the soil
medium. High humidity may result in the formation of bulbils. Sorry for
vague details, but something seems to be going on here.
Appreciate any related comments.
Thanks Jim W.
James W. Waddick Voice: 816 746 1949
8871 NW Brostrom Rd E-MAIL: jim-jim@swbell.net
Kansas City MO 64152 Fax: 816 746 1939
Zone 5/6 - Winter low -10 degrees F Summer high +100 degrees F
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From: "Alan Galloway" alan at unity.ncsu.edu> on 1999.09.14 at 15:14:54(3650)
On Sep 13, 10:55am, James W. Waddick wrote:
> Subject: Propagation by Leaf Cutting
> Dear All;
> Recalling the success in propagating some Amorphophallus from a
> leaf cutting, I wonder how common (or possible) this method of propagation
> is in aroids. Can one propagate Alocasia, Colocasia, Anthurium etc. ?
> Anyone ever attempt this or have success ?
> Curious to hear methods and successes as well as failures.
>
> In Amorphophallus the leaf is cut with a short or no petiole and
> the area between the petiole and the leaf blade is just covered in the soil
> medium. High humidity may result in the formation of bulbils. Sorry for
> vague details, but something seems to be going on here.
>
> Appreciate any related comments.
>
Jim W.
I've been doing some Aroid propagation experiments this year with almost
100 percent success.
I've had success with several species of Amorphophallus and Psuedodracontium.
And in a couple of weeks, may be able to add Caladium to the 'successful'
category.
Unlike some others, I do not use the upper part of the leaf. I use only
the petiole. I cut into 3-4 inch sections and stick them in a mixture of
pinebark and perlite, then put them underneath a trash bag for 6 to 8
weeks. After that the part of the petiole cutting above the ground has
whithered, but a bulbil has formed underground.
One particular failure was with Synandrospadix...only tried one single
cutting. I doubt this would have worked as the petiole tissue was
quite 'airy'.
Alan
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--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan Galloway alan_galloway@ncsu.edu
Computing Services, Information Technology
Campus Box 7109 http://www4.ncsu.edu/~alan
North Carolina State University (phone) 919-515-5483
Raleigh, NC 27695-7109 (fax) 919-515-3787
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From: Aloe1023 at aol.com on 1999.09.15 at 13:58:55(3652)
I'll be interested to know if you're successful in propagating Caladium by
your
petiole cutting method. As far as I know, it's accepted that they cannot be
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prop
by leaf or petiole cut. If it is successful, then I would think Alocasia and
Colocasia
would be a given.
Russ
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From: Neil Carroll zzamia at hargray.com> on 1999.09.20 at 03:46:10(3658)
>I've been doing some Aroid propagation experiments this year with almost
>100 percent success.
>
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>I've had success with several species of Amorphophallus and Psuedodracontium.
>And in a couple of weeks, may be able to add Caladium to the 'successful'
>category.
>
>Unlike some others, I do not use the upper part of the leaf. I use only
>the petiole. I cut into 3-4 inch sections and stick them in a mixture of
>pinebark and perlite, then put them underneath a trash bag for 6 to 8
>weeks. After that the part of the petiole cutting above the ground has
>whithered, but a bulbil has formed underground.
>
>One particular failure was with Synandrospadix...only tried one single
>cutting. I doubt this would have worked as the petiole tissue was
>quite 'airy'.
>
>Alan
Alan, With the petiole method...can this work with very young plants? At
what point in the leaf's development should the cuttings be made?
Neil
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From: MJ Hatfield oneota at ames.net> on 1999.10.11 at 21:57:14(3729)
Alan Galloway can't be reached right now but he said:
"I've been doing some Aroid propagation experiments this year...
Unlike some others, I do not use the upper part of the leaf. I use only
the petiole. I cut into 3-4 inch sections and stick them in a mixture
of pine bark and perlite, then put them underneath a trash bag for 6 to
8 weeks. After that the part of the petiole cutting above the ground
has whithered, but a bulbil has formed underground."
OK, the leaf has withered and there is a bulbil at the base. Help! What
do I do now?
Thanks.
MJ Hatfield
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From: plantnut at macconnect.com (Dewey) on 1999.10.12 at 01:33:21(3735)
DO NOTHING! Keep it slightly moist and do nothing but wait for Spring....
Dewey
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>Alan Galloway can't be reached right now but he said:
>"I've been doing some Aroid propagation experiments this year...
>Unlike some others, I do not use the upper part of the leaf. I use only
>the petiole. I cut into 3-4 inch sections and stick them in a mixture
>of pine bark and perlite, then put them underneath a trash bag for 6 to
>8 weeks. After that the part of the petiole cutting above the ground
>has whithered, but a bulbil has formed underground."
>
>OK, the leaf has withered and there is a bulbil at the base. Help! What
>do I do now?
>
>Thanks.
>
>MJ Hatfield
Dewey E. Fisk, Plant Nut
THE PHILODENDRON PHREAQUE
Your Source for Tropical Araceae
Go to
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From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 1999.10.12 at 22:05:35(3741)
Dear MJ,
My guess (GUESS, mind you!!!) would be to wait till the petiole was
completely dry, then carefully transplant the base with new bulbil to good
growing soil, water and wait for a new leaf.
Good luck,
Julius
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dry>>Alan Galloway can't be reached right now but he said:
"I've been doing some Aroid propagation experiments this year...
Unlike some others, I do not use the upper part of the leaf. I use only
the petiole. I cut into 3-4 inch sections and stick them in a mixture
of pine bark and perlite, then put them underneath a trash bag for 6 to
8 weeks. After that the part of the petiole cutting above the ground
has whithered, but a bulbil has formed underground."
OK, the leaf has withered and there is a bulbil at the base. Help! What
do I do now?
Thanks.
MJ Hatfield<<
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From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at email.msn.com> on 1999.10.12 at 22:10:22(3742)
Dear MJ,
I believe Dewey`s advice (below) is the better way to try, so ignore my
earlier post.
What species were you sucessful with by using Alan`s method??
Julius
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>>DO NOTHING! Keep it slightly moist and do nothing but wait for Spring....
Dewey<<
>Alan Galloway can't be reached right now but he said:
>"I've been doing some Aroid propagation experiments this year...
>Unlike some others, I do not use the upper part of the leaf. I use only
>the petiole. I cut into 3-4 inch sections and stick them in a mixture
>of pine bark and perlite, then put them underneath a trash bag for 6 to
>8 weeks. After that the part of the petiole cutting above the ground
>has whithered, but a bulbil has formed underground."
>
>OK, the leaf has withered and there is a bulbil at the base. Help! What
>do I do now?
>
>Thanks.
>
>MJ Hatfield
Dewey E. Fisk, Plant Nut
THE PHILODENDRON PHREAQUE
Your Source for Tropical Araceae
Go to
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