Arum - minimum temperatures

From: Baumfarn Webmaster webmaster at baumfarn.at> on 2005.10.09 at 18:15:06(13412) Hi, can you please give me some recommendations? Who can tell me the minimum (night) Temperature of the follwoing +More Aroids? All are still green or are about to developing new leaves, that meens that the temperature shouldn't harm them. I was just able to find some dormancy temperatures from aroid.org: But this can't be the minimum of the plant if they are still or getting green?! Sauromatum venosum (Zone 5b) -26 °C Drancuncuus vulgaris (Zone 5b) -26 °C Arisarum vulgare (Zone 7b) -17 °C Arum italicum/Arum pictum (unclear what i realy have ) (Zone 7b) -12 °C Arum hygrophyllum Arum dioscoridis var. cyprium (Zone 8 ) -6 °C thanks Peter -- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- treeferns & aroids: http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern (http://www.baumfarn.at) --------------------------------------------------- Amorphophallus network: http://www.amorphophallus.baumfarn.at/ _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: Arno Clement al.clement at planet.nl> on 2005.10.10 at 20:53:43(13426) Peter I live in the Netherlands (zone 8) and have the following experience with these Aroids. The leaf of Sauromatum venosum (Typhonium venosum) won't survive any frost with even one degree of frost they will die down. But this one is summer growing and there is no problem with winter. You can leave the tubers in the ground and they and so long they are deep enough they will survive in the garden. The other Aroids are winter growing and the leaves of some of the species can have more frost than others. Last year my Dracunculus vulgaris were outside with -6 ?C, the leaves did collapse and looked like boiled spinach and died. But the central growing point in the pseudostem did survive, it did not freeze enough to kill it, after the frost the plants develop new leaves. But I don't think that Dracunculus plants will survive a frost of -10?C, than even the central growing point will freeze. The leaves of Arisarum vulgare can only handle about -3?C, when it freezes more they will die down. When the leaves of Arum italicum, A. pictum and A. dioscoridis freezes they will collapse and they look like boiled spinach but when the frost is over they will completely recover. My plants have survived a frost of -10?C and I think that they can handle more than that. The Arum hygrophyllum plant will also collapse with frost, they plant will survive a frost of -5?C and meaby more. But when the frost is over the plant will stay down, the leaves will turn to the light but it is not a nice plant any more. Most of the tubers will not survive any frost, even -1?C will kill them, but when you plant them deep enough they will not freeze. I hope that this will help. With best wishes, Arno Clement +More ----- Original Message ----- From: Baumfarn Webmaster To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 8:15 PM Subject: [Aroid-l] Arum - minimum temperatures Hi, can you please give me some recommendations?Who can tell me the minimum (night) Temperature of the follwoing Aroids? All are still green or are about to developing new leaves, that meens that the temperature shouldn't harm them. I was just able to find some dormancy temperatures from aroid.org: But this can't be the minimum of the plant if they are still or getting green?!Sauromatum venosum (Zone 5b) -26?C Drancuncuus vulgaris (Zone 5b) -26?C Arisarum vulgare (Zone 7b) -17?C Arum italicum/Arum pictum (unclear what i realy have ) (Zone 7b) -12?C Arum hygrophyllum Arum dioscoridis var. cyprium (Zone 8 ) -6?Cthanks Peter-- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- treeferns & aroids: http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern (http://www.baumfarn.at) --------------------------------------------------- Amorphophallus network: http://www.amorphophallus.baumfarn.at/ _______________________________________________Aroid-l mailing listAroid-l@gizmoworks.comhttp://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.10.12 at 05:22:22(13434) Peter, Here in coastal New Jersey, USA, the first 4 have survived -17C. Arum italicum leaves recover but look battered. Concinnatum winter leaves did not, but new ones replace them in spring. Apparantly dioscoroides against an east wall with some wind protection did not survive. Don't know about hygrophilum, trying it this year in a coldframe. Bonaventure +More Hi, can you please give me some recommendations? Who can tell me the minimum (night) Temperature of the follwoing Aroids? All are still green or are about to developing new leaves, that meens that the temperature shouldn't harm them. I was just able to find some dormancy temperatures from aroid.org: But this can't be the minimum of the plant if they are still or getting green?! Sauromatum venosum (Zone 5b) -26 °C Drancuncuus vulgaris (Zone 5b) -26 °C Arisarum vulgare (Zone 7b) -17 °C Arum italicum/Arum pictum (unclear what i realy have ) (Zone 7b) -12 °C Arum hygrophyllum Arum dioscoridis var. cyprium (Zone 8 ) -6 °C thanks Peter -- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- treeferns & aroids: http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern (http://www.baumfarn.at) --------------------------------------------------- Amorphophallus network: http://www.amorphophallus.baumfarn.at/ _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.10.12 at 06:11:12(13435) I must add that my dracunculus form growing points in winter, but these elongate slowly in response to temperature, and only fully leaf out after all frost danger has past. My Arisarum patch leafs out and blooms in spring but dies down with the heat of early summer. It does not appear again till next spring and is vigorous and increases in size. Sauromatum venosum as a crop I believe can help solve the world's hunger problem. Bonaventure +More Peter I live in the Netherlands (zone 8) and have the following experience with these Aroids. The leaf of Sauromatum venosum (Typhonium venosum) won't survive any frost with even one degree of frost they will die down. But this one is summer growing and there is no problem with winter. You can leave the tubers in the ground and they and so long they are deep enough they will survive in the garden. The other Aroids are winter growing and the leaves of some of the species can have more frost than others. Last year my Dracunculus vulgaris were outside with -6 ?C, the leaves did collapse and looked like boiled spinach and died. But the central growing point in the pseudostem did survive, it did not freeze enough to kill it, after the frost the plants develop new leaves. But I don't think that Dracunculus plants will survive a frost of -10?C, than even the central growing point will freeze. The leaves of Arisarum vulgare can only handle about -3?C, when it freezes more they will die down. When the leaves of Arum italicum, A. pictum and A. dioscoridis freezes they will collapse and they look like boiled spinach but when the frost is over they will completely recover. My plants have survived a frost of -10?C and I think that they can handle more than that. The Arum hygrophyllum plant will also collapse with frost, they plant will survive a frost of -5?C and meaby more. But when the frost is over the plant will stay down, the leaves will turn to the light but it is not a nice plant any more. Most of the tubers will not survive any frost, even -1?C will kill them, but when you plant them deep enough they will not freeze. I hope that this will help. With best wishes, Arno Clement ----- Original Message ----- From: Baumfarn Webmaster To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 8:15 PM Subject: [Aroid-l] Arum - minimum temperatures Hi, can you please give me some recommendations?Who can tell me the minimum (night) Temperature of the follwoing Aroids? All are still green or are about to developing new leaves, that meens that the temperature shouldn't harm them. I was just able to find some dormancy temperatures from aroid.org: But this can't be the minimum of the plant if they are still or getting green?!Sauromatum venosum (Zone 5b) -26?C Drancuncuus vulgaris (Zone 5b) -26?C Arisarum vulgare (Zone 7b) -17?C Arum italicum/Arum pictum (unclear what i realy have ) (Zone 7b) -12?C Arum hygrophyllum Arum dioscoridis var. cyprium (Zone 8 ) -6?Cthanks Peter-- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- treeferns & aroids: http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern (http://www.baumfarn.at) --------------------------------------------------- Amorphophallus network: http://www.amorphophallus.baumfarn.at/ _______________________________________________Aroid-l mailing listAroid-l@gizmoworks.comhttp://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: Baumfarn Webmaster webmaster at baumfarn.at> on 2005.10.14 at 19:35:25(13448) Thanks, I'm afraid but there is no question of planting it deep enough. :-( I don't have any garden just a balcony were all the pots are standing. Seems that I have to place them inside when the temperatures are still droping. +More Strangely, most of the Arums and the Dracunculus began to grow at the end of August. They had a dormancy throughout nearly the whole summer. I bought them all this year. I don't know how they were cared during their 'dormancy before the era of Peter'. ;-) thanks Peter --------------------------------------------------------------------------- treeferns & aroids: http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern (http://www.baumfarn.at) --------------------------------------------------- Amorphophallus network: http://www.amorphophallus.baumfarn.at/ _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: "Steve Ritchey" sritchey at shreve.net> on 2005.10.15 at 22:41:01(13450) Peter, Summer is the normal dormant time for all ten or so Arums I have in the ground here. The first ones I got many years ago were sold as 'summer bulbs'. I killed most of them by watering & fertilizing trying to get them to grow in the summer :) The foliage starts to yellow mid-June here no matter what the weather conditions are. I think this may be a response to day length like Alliums. At that point I stop watering and let them go completely dry & dormant for the summer and they always live to break dormancy and start growing with the autumn rains. Hurricane Rita woke them up a little early this year. Steve +More USDA Zone 7 Northeast Texas ----- Original Message ----- To: "Discussion of aroids" Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 2:35 PM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Arum - minimum temperatures Thanks, I'm afraid but there is no question of planting it deep enough. :-( I don't have any garden just a balcony were all the pots are standing. Seems that I have to place them inside when the temperatures are still droping. Strangely, most of the Arums and the Dracunculus began to grow at the end of August. They had a dormancy throughout nearly the whole summer. I bought them all this year. I don't know how they were cared during their 'dormancy before the era of Peter'. ;-) thanks Peter --------------------------------------------------------------------------- treeferns & aroids: http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern (http://www.baumfarn.at) --------------------------------------------------- Amorphophallus network: http://www.amorphophallus.baumfarn.at/ _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.14/130 - Release Date: 10/12/2005 _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: "Marge Talt" mtalt at hort.net> on 2005.10.16 at 06:18:38(13451) Well, not sure where you are, Peter, but A. italicum var. pictum (or whatever it really is) is bone hardy in my garden, which I call z7 but borders on 6b. If you're in a similar climate, you could probably wrap the pot in bubble wrap and leave it out for the winter. In the garden, leaves flatten when the weather is really bitter, it snows or we have an ice storm, but they perk up during warmer spells and they put out lots of new foliage in spring, flower and go dormant end of June or early July to wake up late August or early Sept. Those that I have that are not hardy for me winter in my cool greenhouse, which often gets nearly freezing, where they grow all winter and then go dormant in summer - I just let the pots get dry...they may get some water when other things in there get watered, but not on purpose. Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland mtalt@hort.net +More Editor: Gardening in Shade, Suite101.com Shadyside Garden Designs ----------------------------------------------- http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/shade_gardening ------------------------------------------------ Complete Index of Articles by Category and Date http://mtalt.hort.net/article-index.html ---------- > From: Baumfarn Webmaster > Thanks, > I'm afraid but there is no question of planting it deep enough. :-( > I don't have any garden just a balcony were all the pots are standing. > Seems that I have to place them inside when the temperatures are still > droping. > Strangely, most of the Arums and the Dracunculus began to grow at the > end of August. They had a dormancy throughout nearly the whole summer. > I bought them all this year. I don't know how they were cared during > their 'dormancy before the era of Peter'. ;-) > > thanks > Peter _______________________________________________ Aroid-l mailing list Aroid-l@gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

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