IAS Aroid Quasi Forum

About Aroid-L
 This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.

  Arum - minimum temperatures
From: Baumfarn Webmaster webmaster at baumfarn.at> on 2005.10.09 at 11:15:06(13412)
Hi, can you please give
me some recommendations?
Who can tell me the minimum (night) Temperature of the follwoing
+More
From: Arno Clement al.clement at planet.nl> on 2005.10.10 at 13:53:43(13426)
Peter

I live in the Netherlands (zone
8) and have the following experience with these Aroids.

The leaf of Sauromatum venosum (Typhonium
venosum) won't survive any frost with even
one degree of frost they will die down. But this one is summer growing and there
is no problem with winter. You can leave the tubers in the ground and they and
so long they are deep enough they will survive in the garden.

The other Aroids are winter growing and the leaves
of some of the species can have more frost than others.

Last year my Dracunculus vulgaris were outside
with -6 ?C, the leaves did
collapse and looked like boiled spinach and died. But the central growing
point in the pseudostem did survive, it did not freeze enough to kill
it, after the frost the plants develop new leaves. But I don't think
that Dracunculus plants will survive a frost of -10?C, than even the
central growing point will freeze.

The leaves of Arisarum vulgare can only handle
about -3?C, when it freezes more they will
die down.

When the leaves of Arum italicum, A. pictum and A.
dioscoridis freezes they will collapse and they look like boiled
spinach but when the frost is over they will completely recover. My plants have
survived a frost of -10?C and I think that
they can handle more than that.

The Arum hygrophyllum plant will also
collapse with frost, they plant will survive a frost of -5?C and meaby more. But when the frost is over the
plant will stay down, the leaves will turn to the light but it is not a nice
plant any more.

Most of the tubers will not survive any frost, even
-1?C will kill them, but when you plant them
deep enough they will not freeze.

I hope that this will help.

With best wishes,
Arno Clement

+More
From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.10.11 at 22:22:22(13434)
Peter,
Here in coastal New Jersey, USA, the first 4 have survived -17C. Arum italicum leaves recover but look battered. Concinnatum winter leaves did not, but new ones replace them in spring. Apparantly dioscoroides against an east wall with some wind protection did not survive. Don't know about hygrophilum, trying it this year in a coldframe.

Bonaventure

+More
From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.10.11 at 23:11:12(13435)
I must add that my dracunculus form growing points in winter, but these elongate slowly in response to temperature, and only fully leaf out after all frost danger has past. My Arisarum patch leafs out and blooms in spring but dies down with the heat of early summer. It does not appear again till next spring and is vigorous and increases in size.
Sauromatum venosum as a crop I believe can help solve the world's hunger problem.

Bonaventure

+More
From: Baumfarn Webmaster webmaster at baumfarn.at> on 2005.10.14 at 12:35:25(13448)
Thanks,
I'm afraid but there is no question of planting it deep enough. :-(
I don't have any garden just a balcony were all the pots are standing.
Seems that I have to place them inside when the temperatures are still
droping.
+More
From: "Steve Ritchey" sritchey at shreve.net> on 2005.10.15 at 15:41:01(13450)
Peter,
Summer is the normal dormant time for all ten or so Arums I have in the
ground here. The first ones I got many years ago were sold as 'summer
bulbs'. I killed most of them by watering & fertilizing trying to get them
to grow in the summer :) The foliage starts to yellow mid-June here no
matter what the weather conditions are. I think this may be a response to
day length like Alliums. At that point I stop watering and let them go
completely dry & dormant for the summer and they always live to break
dormancy and start growing with the autumn rains. Hurricane Rita woke them
up a little early this year.

Steve

+More
From: "Marge Talt" mtalt at hort.net> on 2005.10.15 at 23:18:38(13451)
Well, not sure where you are, Peter, but A. italicum var. pictum (or
whatever it really is) is bone hardy in my garden, which I call z7
but borders on 6b. If you're in a similar climate, you could
probably wrap the pot in bubble wrap and leave it out for the winter.
In the garden, leaves flatten when the weather is really bitter, it
snows or we have an ice storm, but they perk up during warmer spells
and they put out lots of new foliage in spring, flower and go dormant
end of June or early July to wake up late August or early Sept.

Those that I have that are not hardy for me winter in my cool
greenhouse, which often gets nearly freezing, where they grow all
winter and then go dormant in summer - I just let the pots get
dry...they may get some water when other things in there get watered,
but not on purpose.

Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
mtalt@hort.net

+More
Note: this is a very old post, so no reply function is available.