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Anthurium blight
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From: ExoticRainforest <Steve at exoticrainforest.com> on 2010.01.11 at 19:54:00(20459)
A warning from our friend LelandMiyano from information originating from botanist David Scherberich.
There is now a very bad Anthurium blightwhich may be spreading. At least two gardens in France have hadto deal with this one which has no cure. The one that is really badis Xanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae whichcauses the leaf margins to turn yellow and all the leaves to drop. Iwould suggest you be very careful about buying new Anthuriumright now! This has the potential to kill an entire collection.
Some species appear resistant but others spread it quickly. Somecommercial growers in Hawaii lost almost entire crops of ornamental Anthurium(the kind you buy in the store) so be very careful about buying any Anthuriumin a local nursery or discount store!
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1392979/
Any of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass alongwhat you know.
Steve
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www.ExoticRainforest.com
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From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2010.01.12 at 16:38:37(20462)
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ZARAZA BAKTERYJNA ANTURIUM - CZY COŚ SIĘ ZMIENIŁO?
prof. dr hab. Leszek Orlikowski
W latach 80. na Hawajach, a następnie w innych krajach tropikalnych i subtropikalnych, pojawiła się na anturium bakterioza wywoływana przez Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. dieffenbachiae. Wkrótce patogen ten doprowadził do znacznych strat w nasadzeniach anturium powodując głównie zamieranie roślin. W latach 90. zarazę bakteryjną stwierdzono w Holandii, a następnie - między innymi - w Indiach, Argentynie i w Polsce. Okazało się, że roślinie, która wcześniej należała do najmniej chronionych chemicznie przed chorobami, grozi zagłada. Badania przeprowadzone na Hawajach wykazały, że objawy chorobowe występujące na liściach i kwiatostanach nie są jedynymi, które wywołuje Xanthomonas. Może bowiem dochodzić do systemicznego zakażenia roślin i rozprzestrzeniania się bakterii w wiązkach przewodzących. Często od zakażenia roślin (zwykle dochodzi do niego za pośrednictwem korzeni lub przez uszkodzenia pędu) do wystąpienia objawów więdnięcia anturium mija kilkanaście tygodni.
Infekcja miejscowa lub systemiczna
Od konferencji poświęconej anturium, na której przedstawiłem problemy związane z występowaniem zarazy bakteryjnej, minęły już prawie 3 lata. Od tego czasu miałem okazję obejrzenia wielu odmian anturium zakażonych przez X. axonopodis pv. dieffenbachiae, a także objawów chorobowych na roślinach o różnym stadium rozwoju i w różnych porach roku. Potwierdzeniem tych obserwacji są doniesienia z piśmiennictwa opisujące infekcję miejscową i systemiczną. Symptomy pierwszej z nich można zauważyć na liściach w różnych miejscach, w formie nieregularnych, początkowo wodnistych, potem brązowych i brunatnych plam obrzeżonych żółtą tkanką. Brunatne plamy mogą też wystąpić na kolbie lub barwnym liściu przykwiatostanowym (fot. 1).
FOT. 1. OBJAWY ZARAZY BAKTERYJNEJ NA POCHWIE KWIATOSTANOWEJ (ODMIANA 'MIDORI')
Anturium z takimi objawami, o ile pojawią się na pojedynczych liściach, może przetrwać od jesieni aż do późnej wiosny i udaje się zebrać z takich roślin plon. Jeśli zaś dochodzi do wniknięcia bakterii do wiązek przewodzących (infekcja systemiczna), od jesieni do wiosny choroba może objawić się żółknięciem części liścia, po czym przebarwienie rozszerza się na całą blaszkę (fot. 2).
FOT. 2. WIĘDNIĘCIE I ŻÓŁKNIĘCIE ROŚLIN NA PLANTACJI - OBJAWY INFEKCJI SYSTEMICZNEJ
Rośliny takie więdną i zamierają dopiero wtedy, gdy wzrasta temperatura oraz nasłonecznienie. Latem rośliny mogą nagle tracić turgor, choć nie było innych zewnętrznych symptomów choroby. Po przekrojeniu ogonka liściowego lub szypuły kwiatostanowej widać przebarwienie wiązek przewodzących. Po włożeniu fragmentu porażonej tkanki do komory wilgotnościowej, po kilku, kilkunastu minutach na jego powierzchni pojawiają się krople wysięku bakterii (fot. 3).
FOT. 3. WYSIĘK BAKTERYJNY NA SZYPULE KWIATOSTANOWEJ ANTURIUM
Perspektywy rozwiązania problemu i zalecane środki zaradcze
Na Hawajach przeprowadzono doświadczenia nad podatnością 6 miejscowych odmian anturium na X. axonopodis pv. dieffenbachiae. Tylko 'Kalapana' okazała się odporna zarówno na infekcję miejscową, jak i systemiczną. Inne odmiany, jeśli miały odporność na infekcję liści czy kwiatostanów, to były wrażliwe na zakażenie systemiczne. Podobne współzależności stwierdzili hawajscy naukowcy w stosunku do odmian holenderskich, których nazw nie wyszczególniono jednak w opublikowanej pracy.
Trzeba mieć nadzieję, że w następnych latach odnotujemy postęp w poszukiwaniu odmian tolerancyjnych wobec omawianej bakterii. Bez względu na to, jakie będą efekty badań, w obiektach, gdzie uprawia się anturium, należy rygorystycznie przestrzegać następujących zasad*:
- Nabywać rośliny (materiał wyjściowy) tylko w tych firmach, które posiadają świadectwo zdrowotności na produkowane siewki czy sadzonki anturium.
- W gospodarstwie, gdzie rośnie anturium, nie uprawiać roślin z rodziny obrazkowatych (Araceae), takich jak: aglaonema, kaladium, difenbachia, filodendron, syngonium, gdyż są one żywicielami X. axonopodis pv. dieffenbachiae.
- Przed wejściem do szklarni lub tunelu wyłożyć matę pokrytą płótnem i zwilżać ją, w miarę potrzeby, 1,5-procentowym roztworem preparatu Trisep 210 SL â mata ma służyć do odkażania obuwia (dotyczy to również wszystkich gości zwiedzających szklarnię).
- Jeśli w obiekcie produkuje się również inne rośliny, wchodząc lub pracując w nawie z anturium należy używać fartucha, który pozostawia się opuszczając to miejsce.
- Zainstalować w obiekcie pojemniki z płynem do odkażania rąk i korzystać z niego za każdym razem przed wejściem do hal z anturium.
- Przy cięciu kwiatów każdorazowo odkażać nóż lub skalpel w denaturacie lub innym środku do dezynfekcji.
- Jeśli usuwa się rośliny z objawami zarazy bakteryjnej, trzeba je delikatnie wyciągnąć z podłoża i włożyć do worka plastikowego tak, aby nie osypywało się podłoże â rośliny te powinno się spalić.
* W zaleceniach holenderskich dotyczących ochrony anturium przed bakterią Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. dieffenbachiae poleca się Aliette 80 WP. Dotychczas brakuje danych krajowych na temat skuteczności tego fungicydu. Doświadczenia takie zostaną przeprowadzone w najbliższym czasie.
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From: George Yao <geoyao at gmail.com> on 2010.01.14 at 18:38:48(20472)
Hello Steve,
I asked a horticultural consultant about this and he informed me that Anthurium blight has existed in Hawaii for three decades already. According to him, the solution prescribed of using antibiotic is not effective. He asserted that "Bacterial Disease is a systems defect. They will need to ovehaul their production system to solve the problem." Additionally, he maintained that "Holland never had that problem because of the Dutch integrated agricultural approach." He informed me that recently he was hired to solve that problem in Jakarta and he claimed that "Problem now solved. No more bacterial infections."
George Yao
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Metro-Manila
Philippines
On 01/12/10, at 3:54 AM, ExoticRainforest wrote:
A warning from our friend Leland Miyano from information originating from botanist David Scherberich.
There is now a very bad Anthurium blight which may be spreading. At least two gardens in France have had to deal with this one which has no cure. The one that is really bad is Xanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae which causes the leaf margins to turn yellow and all the leaves to drop. I would suggest you be very careful about buying new Anthurium right now! This has the potential to kill an entire collection.
Some species appear resistant but others spread it quickly. Some commercial growers in Hawaii lost almost entire crops of ornamental Anthurium (the kind you buy in the store) so be very careful about buying any Anthurium in a local nursery or discount store!
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1392979/
Any of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass along what you know.
Steve
www.ExoticRainforest.com
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From: agrsuw at ku.ac.th on 2010.01.15 at 08:47:41(20476)
Dear all,
I strongly agree with J. People should not be discouraged to purchase and
enjoy anthuriums because of the disease.
The blight has been with us for a very long time. It will spread only if
the condition (humidity and air movement) is right.
| +More |
>From my experience in Hawaii (where the blight start to spread when I
studied there) and Thailand, the best way to control is to limit air
humidity and rain-struck in the growing area as well as to provide
ventilation. Calcium and magnesium slight-deficiencies can also lead to
the problem.
If the disease occurs, remove the infected part as soon as possible. The
best time to check the symtom is before 10 am. If the petiole is
infected, just toss the plant. Keeping infected plant is just to help the
disease to spread.
Please remember that antibiotic can just reduce the pathogen population.
Frequent use of antibiotic will likely to lead to a resistant strain.
Surawit
>
> Steve:
>
>
>
> Anthurium blight has been with us forever and affects a wide range of
> aroid genera. Breeders, including me, often select for plants that show
> apparent tolerance to it but generally have learned to live with it
> lurking in the wings. I am not sure that there are any Anthurium spp. nor
> hybrids that are truly 100% blight-resistant, although the riparians
> antioquiense and amnicola are known to transmit their tolerance to
> andraeanum hybrid (the so-called andraecolas) offspring. Conversely, there
> are a number of old andraeanum and crystallinum hybrids and quite a few
> montane spp. that are exquisitely susceptible to blight. Whether or not we
> are seeing more aggressive strains emerging in the trade is another matter
> entirely; I have not imported stock from the 'States since 2006 so would
> not be the right individual to address this possibility. It would be
> interesting to hear from Denis Rotolante, who would certainly know whether
> they are seeing new antibiotic-resistant strains, and with whom I
> exchanged info on Xanthomonas management in greenhouses in 2000-2001.
>
>
>
> I completely disagree with the notion that small scale growers cannot
> effectively control this blight and should not be buying anthuriums now
> because of it (!!!). While the last time I actually had a lab make a
> positive pathogen determination for me was almost 10 years back, I think
> many of us know it when we see it, and I certainly no longer have the
> dread that I used to have for it when I first started growing anthurium in
> the late 90s. I suffered a number of severe outbreaks stemming from
> imported plants early in the last decade but, frankly, I have not had a
> serious problem with it for years in spite of growing more than "just a
> few" plants for cut flower ('Tropic Fire' and my own hoffmannii based
> hybrids) and 0000s of foliage-type collector goodies.
>
>
>
> Basically, what makes anthurium blight control especially difficult for
> commercial growers is that the pathogen is rapidly spread, not only by
> mechanical means such as non-disinfected cutting tools, employees' hands,
> clothes, etc. - DR mentioned once that Cuban treefrogs clambering from
> plant to plant in his greenhouses were a suspected vector! - but also by
> splashing water and leaves banging against each other (this is a bad thing
> generally for all anthuriums!). Anyone who has this problem should be
> extremely careful to avoid "hard" overhead watering or exposure to rain.
> While this seems counterintuitive to a tropical aroid fan, bestest and
> fastest control is gained when foliage is kept dry, well-ventilated but
> nearly motionless in order to minimize mechanical damage to the leaves
> that facilitates entry for the bacteria.
>
>
>
> - My frontline treatment for foliar infection is Agrimycin (streptomycin
> sulfate 17%) AFTER removing all visibly infected plant tissue to a point
> well beyond the classic yellow halo line circumscribing necrotic tissue. I
> would need to check my notes to see at what concentrations I usually
> apply, but I do seem to recall that I make three apps about 5-8 days
> apart. I often rotate or follow-up with copper-based ag-chem although it
> is contra-indicated in the literature...some have recommended systemic
> copper but I have found it unnecessary, expensive and quite phytotoxic.
>
>
>
> - While I occasionally use concentrated quat ammonium dips for
> disinfecting my pruners (at least three in the greenhouse, used in
> rotation), I definitely favor flaming tools between cuts to all my plants
> to red hot. If you do not consistently disinfect tools between plants,
> IMO, you will never gain good blight control once it is firmly established
> in your collection.
>
>
>
> - It is VERY important to remove infected leaves once they are visibly
> blighted to avoid the blight becoming systemic. I will say that my
> experience has been that if one permits a severe blight to extend from the
> lamina down the petiole (which will often mush at the geniculum and the
> base) to the main stem, the plant is generally going to hand in its lunch
> pail in very short order. If this occurs, toss these critters asap.
>
>
>
> - It seems that many growers-gardeners love to fondle their plants when
> they're in their grow spaces. I cannot emphasize enough that any handling
> of aroids that are known or suspected of being blighted should be kept to
> an absolute minimum, and hands disinfected between this kind of
> manipulation.
>
>
>
> Note: IME, Agrimycin will invariably burn/disfigure leaves of Anthurium
> veitchii and its hybrids, usually quite severely, as well as some old
> andraeanum primary hybrids and few others. It can also be extremely hard
> on seedlings.
>
>
>
> J
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:54:00 -0600
> From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
> To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
> Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
>
> A warning from our friend Leland Miyano from information originating from
> botanist David Scherberich.
>
> There is now a very bad Anthurium blight which may be spreading. At least
> two gardens in France have had to deal with this one which has no cure.
> The one that is really bad is Xanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae
> which causes the leaf margins to turn yellow and all the leaves to drop.
> I would suggest you be very careful about buying new Anthurium right now!
> This has the potential to kill an entire collection.
>
> Some species appear resistant but others spread it quickly. Some
> commercial growers in Hawaii lost almost entire crops of ornamental
> Anthurium (the kind you buy in the store) so be very careful about buying
> any Anthurium in a local nursery or discount store!
>
> http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1392979/
>
> Any of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass along what
> you know.
>
>
> Steve
> www.ExoticRainforest.com
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they
> e-mail you.
> http://www.microsoft.com/middleeast/windows/windowslive/see-it-in-action/social-network-basics.aspx?ocid=PID23461::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-xm:SI_SB_3:092010_______________________________________________
> Aroid-L mailing list
> Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com
> http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
>
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From: ExoticRainforest <Steve at ExoticRainforest.com> on 2010.01.15 at 19:35:09(20478)
Thanks Jay. My knowledge of thisstuff is very limited but it did concern me once I began to read someof the info on the internet. We see lots of poorly grown ornamental Anthuriumin some of our local stores, often showing signs of what may bedisease. I have a relative that is a district manager for a largeretailer and he says they throw away lots of plants as a result. Ijust wouldn't want anyone to get the stuff in a prized collection.
Thanks again for the info.
Steve
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www.ExoticRainforest.com
Jay Vannini wrote:
Steve:
Anthurium blight has been with us forever and affects a wide range ofaroid genera. Breeders, including me, often select for plants that showapparent tolerance to it but generally have learned to live with itlurking in the wings. I am not sure that there are any Anthurium spp.nor hybrids that are truly 100% blight-resistant, although theriparians antioquiense and amnicola are known to transmit theirtolerance to andraeanum hybrid (the so-called andraecolas) offspring.Conversely, there are a number of old andraeanum and crystallinumhybrids and quite a few montane spp. that are exquisitelysusceptible to blight. Whether or not we are seeing more aggressivestrains emerging in the trade is another matter entirely; I have notimported stock from the 'States since 2006 so would not be the rightindividual to address this possibility. It would be interesting to hearfrom Denis Rotolante, who would certainly know whether they are seeingnew antibiotic-resistant strains, and with whom I exchanged info onXanthomonas management in greenhouses in 2000-2001.
I completely disagreewith the notion that small scale growers cannot effectivelycontrol this blight and should not be buying anthuriums now because ofit (!!!). While the last time I actually had a lab make a positivepathogen determination for me was almost 10 years back, I think many ofus know it when we see it, and I certainly no longer have the dreadthat I used to have for it when I first started growing anthurium inthe late 90s. I suffered a number of severe outbreaks stemming fromimported plants early in the last decade but, frankly, I have not had aserious problem with it for years in spite of growing more than "just afew" plants for cut flower ('Tropic Fire' and my own hoffmannii basedhybrids) and 0000s of foliage-type collector goodies.
Basically, what makes anthurium blight control especially difficult forcommercial growers is that the pathogen is rapidly spread, not only bymechanical means such as non-disinfected cutting tools, employees'hands, clothes, etc. - DR mentioned once that Cuban treefrogsclambering from plant to plant in his greenhouses were a suspectedvector! - but also by splashing water and leaves banging against eachother (this is a bad thing generally for all anthuriums!). Anyone whohas this problem should be extremely careful to avoid "hard" overheadwatering or exposure to rain. While this seems counterintuitive to atropical aroid fan, bestest and fastest control is gained when foliageis kept dry, well-ventilated but nearly motionless in order to minimizemechanical damage to the leaves that facilitates entry for the bacteria.
- My frontline treatment for foliar infection is Agrimycin(streptomycin sulfate 17%) AFTER removing all visibly infected planttissue to a point well beyond the classic yellow halo linecircumscribing necrotic tissue. I would need to check my notes to seeat what concentrations I usually apply, but I do seem to recall that Imake three apps about 5-8 days apart. I often rotate or follow-up withcopper-based ag-chem although it is contra-indicated in theliterature...some have recommended systemic copper but I have found itunnecessary, expensive and quite phytotoxic.
- While I occasionally use concentrated quat ammonium dips fordisinfecting my pruners (at least three in the greenhouse, used inrotation), I definitely favor flaming tools between cuts to allmy plants to red hot. If you do not consistently disinfect toolsbetween plants, IMO, you will never gain good blight control once it isfirmly established in your collection.
- It is VERY important to remove infected leaves once they are visiblyblighted to avoid the blight becoming systemic. I will say that myexperience has been that if one permits a severe blight to extend fromthe lamina down the petiole (which will often mush at the geniculum andthe base) to the main stem, the plant is generally going to hand in itslunch pail in very short order. If this occurs, toss these crittersasap.
- It seems that many growers-gardeners love to fondle their plants whenthey're in their grow spaces. I cannot emphasize enough that anyhandling of aroids that are known or suspected of being blighted shouldbe kept to an absolute minimum, and hands disinfected between this kindof manipulation.
Note: IME, Agrimycin will invariably burn/disfigure leaves of Anthuriumveitchii and its hybrids, usually quite severely, as well as some oldandraeanum primary hybrids and few others. It can also be extremelyhard on seedlings.
J
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:54:00 -0600
From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
A warning from our friend LelandMiyano from information originating from botanist David Scherberich.
There is now a very bad Anthurium blightwhich may be spreading. At least two gardens in France have had todeal with this one which has no cure. The one that is really bad is Xanthomonascampestris pv. dieffenbachiae which causes the leaf marginsto turn yellow and all the leaves to drop. I would suggest you be verycareful about buying new Anthurium right now! This has thepotential to kill an entire collection.
Some species appear resistant but others spread it quickly. Somecommercial growers in Hawaii lost almost entire crops of ornamental Anthurium(the kind you buy in the store) so be very careful about buying any Anthuriumin a local nursery or discount store!
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1392979/
Any of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass alongwhat you know.
Steve
www.ExoticRainforest.com
Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates whenthey e-mail you.
_______________________________________________Aroid-L mailing listAroid-L@www.gizmoworks.comhttp://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
--------------070701030808030801010305 |
|
From: Jay Vannini <heloderma5 at hotmail.com> on 2010.01.16 at 16:54:56(20482)
Steve:
Glad to have been of service.
Several clarifications appear in order.
- IMO, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that anthurium blight is not already in everyone's exotic aroid collection who is reading this, either manifest or latent.
- From old lab work I know that I have had at least three separate introductions into my own, from South Florida nurseries (1999-2000), from a domestic anthurium cut flower source (1998-2000), and from a commercial supplier in South America (this was diagnosed from tissue collected at port of entry by our Ag Ministry lab in 2003...at that time Xanthomonas campestris-positive did not require destruction of the plants so they were waived. Needless to say, I quarantined the blazes out of this and all subsequent commercial imports through 2006. Following ratification of DR-CAFTA we are now under the regional one size fits all rule...these plants would be incinerated if this import occurred today).
- Based on the protocol I outlined earlier, I grow many flawless, very blight-sensitive Anthurium spp. in close proximity to other plants with minor blight halos evident on leaf edges and have images to prove it.
- For George Yao's benefit, what I outlined in response to your initial posting IS an IPM-inspired protocol for control of this blight in private and public collections.
- Commercial growers have a vastly different set of challenges and require a very different protocol for blight management and require a somewhat different approach (see below).
- I have the short form product data sheet for Agri-mycin formulation that I use (manufactured at Pfizer's Toluca plant in México) before me. A correction to an earlier statement I made...it is in fact 15% streptomycin sulfate and 1.5% oxytetracycline + inert balance, not 17% streptomycin as I wrote. In any event, in free translation the sheet reads that the product is "recommended" for "control of the following diseases": "...bacterias caused by the genera Xanthomonas, Erwinia and Pseudomonas" in the "following crops": "Ornamentals"...Philodendron, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema."
- At yesterday's market close, Pfizer, Inc. market cap was almost US$ 160 BILLION.
- If, say, it were revealed that Pfizer, Inc.'s ag-chem division was making manifestly false claims regarding the efficacy of one of their mainstream products then, say, a well-heeled large ornamental plant grower might be tempted to sue their pants (and big pants they are!) off.
- Agri-mycin can provide very effective suppression (not cure) of anthurium blight in COLLECTIONS OF ORNAMENTALS when used properly in conjunction with a broader IPM-inspired protocol. It is NOT a panacea nor a silver bullet to eradicate anthurium blight and neither I (nor Pfizer) would ever claim that it is. However, it certainly can provide suppression to a point where healthy, well-grown plants can prosper with it latent in their environments. My own fairly large blight-susceptible aroid collection, plus several published sources, proves it.
- IMO, and as diplomatically-put as possible; anyone who claims otherwise doesn't know what he/she doesn't know.
- If a given grower blithely continues to challenge their blight-susceptible tropical aroids with environmental (note: IME, lousy water quality aggravates anthurium blight in delicate plants for certain) or management issues, this critter will ultimately (often in short order) decimate all those vulnerable plants and nothing short of Divine Intervention will save them. Don't waste your money on ag-chem if you are not willing to practice clean culture - it won't really help.
Thus, from a hobbyists' perspective, successful management of this nasty pathogen requires a certain mindset and quite a bit of discipline with regard to handling and triage of visibly-affected plants. Believe me, it works. Conversely, commercial growers have, in the past, been faced with no other economically viable option other than having to destroy their entire blight-susceptible inventory and start afresh with new cultivation protocols and blight-resistant stock from micropropagation. This also works, but at a very steep price.
All those here who are willing to properly dispose of the entirety of their exotic aroid collections just because they contain some suspicious-looking or blight-diagnosed rare plants and start all over with those handsome (the colors!!!) tissue-cultured, mass-produced, PATENTED (no unauthorized asexual propagation, folks) anthuriums, aglaonemas, alocasias and philodendrons, please hold up your hands.
Didin't think so...
J
| HTML +More |
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:35:09 -0600
From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
Thanks Jay. My knowledge of this stuff is very limited but it did concern me once I began to read some of the info on the internet. We see lots of poorly grown ornamental Anthurium in some of our local stores, often showing signs of what may be disease. I have a relative that is a district manager for a large retailer and he says they throw away lots of plants as a result. I just wouldn't want anyone to get the stuff in a prized collection.
Thanks again for the info.
Steve
www.ExoticRainforest.com
Jay Vannini wrote:
Steve:
Anthurium blight has been with us forever and affects a wide range of aroid genera. Breeders, including me, often select for plants that show apparent tolerance to it but generally have learned to live with it lurking in the wings. I am not sure that there are any Anthurium spp. nor hybrids that are truly 100% blight-resistant, although the riparians antioquiense and amnicola are known to transmit their tolerance to andraeanum hybrid (the so-called andraecolas) offspring. Conversely, there are a number of old andraeanum and crystallinum hybrids and quite a few montane spp. that are exquisitely susceptible to blight. Whether or not we are seeing more aggressive strains emerging in the trade is another matter entirely; I have not imported stock from the 'States since 2006 so would not be the right individual to address this possibility. It would be interesting to hear from Denis Rotolante, who would certainly know whether they are seeing new antibiotic-resistant strains, and with whom I exchanged info on Xanthomonas management in greenhouses in 2000-2001.
I completely disagree with the notion that small scale growers cannot effectively control this blight and should not be buying anthuriums now because of it (!!!). While the last time I actually had a lab make a positive pathogen determination for me was almost 10 years back, I think many of us know it when we see it, and I certainly no longer have the dread that I used to have for it when I first started growing anthurium in the late 90s. I suffered a number of severe outbreaks stemming from imported plants early in the last decade but, frankly, I have not had a serious problem with it for years in spite of growing more than "just a few" plants for cut flower ('Tropic Fire' and my own hoffmannii based hybrids) and 0000s of foliage-type collector goodies.
Basically, what makes anthurium blight control especially difficult for commercial growers is that the pathogen is rapidly spread, not only by mechanical means such as non-disinfected cutting tools, employees' hands, clothes, etc. - DR mentioned once that Cuban treefrogs clambering from plant to plant in his greenhouses were a suspected vector! - but also by splashing water and leaves banging against each other (this is a bad thing generally for all anthuriums!). Anyone who has this problem should be extremely careful to avoid "hard" overhead watering or exposure to rain. While this seems counterintuitive to a tropical aroid fan, bestest and fastest control is gained when foliage is kept dry, well-ventilated but nearly motionless in order to minimize mechanical damage to the leaves that facilitates entry for the bacteria.
- My frontline treatment for foliar infection is Agrimycin (streptomycin sulfate 17%) AFTER removing all visibly infected plant tissue to a point well beyond the classic yellow halo line circumscribing necrotic tissue. I would need to check my notes to see at what concentrations I usually apply, but I do seem to recall that I make three apps about 5-8 days apart. I often rotate or follow-up with copper-based ag-chem although it is contra-indicated in the literature...some have recommended systemic copper but I have found it unnecessary, expensive and quite phytotoxic.
- While I occasionally use concentrated quat ammonium dips for disinfecting my pruners (at least three in the greenhouse, used in rotation), I definitely favor flaming tools between cuts to all my plants to red hot. If you do not consistently disinfect tools between plants, IMO, you will never gain good blight control once it is firmly established in your collection.
- It is VERY important to remove infected leaves once they are visibly blighted to avoid the blight becoming systemic. I will say that my experience has been that if one permits a severe blight to extend from the lamina down the petiole (which will often mush at the geniculum and the base) to the main stem, the plant is generally going to hand in its lunch pail in very short order. If this occurs, toss these critters asap.
- It seems that many growers-gardeners love to fondle their plants when they're in their grow spaces. I cannot emphasize enough that any handling of aroids that are known or suspected of being blighted should be kept to an absolute minimum, and hands disinfected between this kind of manipulation.
Note: IME, Agrimycin will invariably burn/disfigure leaves of Anthurium veitchii and its hybrids, usually quite severely, as well as some old andraeanum primary hybrids and few others. It can also be extremely hard on seedlings.
J
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:54:00 -0600
From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
A warning from our friend Leland Miyano from information originating from botanist David Scherberich.
There is now a very bad Anthurium blight which may be spreading. At least two gardens in France have had to deal with this one which has no cure. The one that is really bad is Xanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae which causes the leaf margins to turn yellow and all the leaves to drop. I would suggest you be very careful about buying new Anthurium right now! This has the potential to kill an entire collection.
Some species appear resistant but others spread it quickly. Some commercial growers in Hawaii lost almost entire crops of ornamental Anthurium (the kind you buy in the store) so be very careful about buying any Anthurium in a local nursery or discount store!
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1392979/
Any of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass along what you know.
Steve
www.ExoticRainforest.com
Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they e-mail you.
_______________________________________________Aroid-L mailing listAroid-L@www.gizmoworks.comhttp://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
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From: Jay Vannini <heloderma5 at hotmail.com> on 2010.01.16 at 18:37:58(20483)
One final clarification on control of aroid blight for those who did not catch this at the end of my first response...even at approved rates and concentrations Agri-mycin can be briefly but extremely phytotoxic to some ornamental aroids, esp. some specific anthurium spp. and cut flower types (the reason why it is not labeled for use on this genus in this region) and can burn leaves severely. For commercial growers this can be a deal-breaker for obvious reasons, but for hobbyists and BGs it is infinitely preferable to have burned leaves on your prized giant Anthurium superbum or A. veitchii for a year or so than to watch it succumb to aroid blight.
An old paper, but authoritative source: http://facultystaff.vwc.edu/~presslar/CultivatedAnthurium/PDF-Lib/BacterialBlightControl-No14.pdf The heads-up on not making this an everyday standby echos Surawit's earlier cautionary note about breeding blight resistance to antibiotics. I agree.
J
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:35:09 -0600
From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
Thanks Jay. My knowledge of this stuff is very limited but it did concern me once I began to read some of the info on the internet. We see lots of poorly grown ornamental Anthurium in some of our local stores, often showing signs of what may be disease. I have a relative that is a district manager for a large retailer and he says they throw away lots of plants as a result. I just wouldn't want anyone to get the stuff in a prized collection.
Thanks again for the info.
Steve
| HTML +More | |
www.ExoticRainforest.com
Jay Vannini wrote:
Steve:
Anthurium blight has been with us forever and affects a wide range of aroid genera. Breeders, including me, often select for plants that show apparent tolerance to it but generally have learned to live with it lurking in the wings. I am not sure that there are any Anthurium spp. nor hybrids that are truly 100% blight-resistant, although the riparians antioquiense and amnicola are known to transmit their tolerance to andraeanum hybrid (the so-called andraecolas) offspring. Conversely, there are a number of old andraeanum and crystallinum hybrids and quite a few montane spp. that are exquisitely susceptible to blight. Whether or not we are seeing more aggressive strains emerging in the trade is another matter entirely; I have not imported stock from the 'States since 2006 so would not be the right individual to address this possibility. It would be interesting to hear from Denis Rotolante, who would certainly know whether they are seeing new antibiotic-resistant strains, and with whom I exchanged info on Xanthomonas management in greenhouses in 2000-2001.
I completely disagree with the notion that small scale growers cannot effectively control this blight and should not be buying anthuriums now because of it (!!!). While the last time I actually had a lab make a positive pathogen determination for me was almost 10 years back, I think many of us know it when we see it, and I certainly no longer have the dread that I used to have for it when I first started growing anthurium in the late 90s. I suffered a number of severe outbreaks stemming from imported plants early in the last decade but, frankly, I have not had a serious problem with it for years in spite of growing more than "just a few" plants for cut flower ('Tropic Fire' and my own hoffmannii based hybrids) and 0000s of foliage-type collector goodies.
Basically, what makes anthurium blight control especially difficult for commercial growers is that the pathogen is rapidly spread, not only by mechanical means such as non-disinfected cutting tools, employees' hands, clothes, etc. - DR mentioned once that Cuban treefrogs clambering from plant to plant in his greenhouses were a suspected vector! - but also by splashing water and leaves banging against each other (this is a bad thing generally for all anthuriums!). Anyone who has this problem should be extremely careful to avoid "hard" overhead watering or exposure to rain. While this seems counterintuitive to a tropical aroid fan, bestest and fastest control is gained when foliage is kept dry, well-ventilated but nearly motionless in order to minimize mechanical damage to the leaves that facilitates entry for the bacteria.
- My frontline treatment for foliar infection is Agrimycin (streptomycin sulfate 17%) AFTER removing all visibly infected plant tissue to a point well beyond the classic yellow halo line circumscribing necrotic tissue. I would need to check my notes to see at what concentrations I usually apply, but I do seem to recall that I make three apps about 5-8 days apart. I often rotate or follow-up with copper-based ag-chem although it is contra-indicated in the literature...some have recommended systemic copper but I have found it unnecessary, expensive and quite phytotoxic.
- While I occasionally use concentrated quat ammonium dips for disinfecting my pruners (at least three in the greenhouse, used in rotation), I definitely favor flaming tools between cuts to all my plants to red hot. If you do not consistently disinfect tools between plants, IMO, you will never gain good blight control once it is firmly established in your collection.
- It is VERY important to remove infected leaves once they are visibly blighted to avoid the blight becoming systemic. I will say that my experience has been that if one permits a severe blight to extend from the lamina down the petiole (which will often mush at the geniculum and the base) to the main stem, the plant is generally going to hand in its lunch pail in very short order. If this occurs, toss these critters asap.
- It seems that many growers-gardeners love to fondle their plants when they're in their grow spaces. I cannot emphasize enough that any handling of aroids that are known or suspected of being blighted should be kept to an absolute minimum, and hands disinfected between this kind of manipulation.
Note: IME, Agrimycin will invariably burn/disfigure leaves of Anthurium veitchii and its hybrids, usually quite severely, as well as some old andraeanum primary hybrids and few others. It can also be extremely hard on seedlings.
J
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:54:00 -0600
From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
A warning from our friend Leland Miyano from information originating from botanist David Scherberich.
There is now a very bad Anthurium blight which may be spreading. At least two gardens in France have had to deal with this one which has no cure. The one that is really bad is Xanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae which causes the leaf margins to turn yellow and all the leaves to drop. I would suggest you be very careful about buying new Anthurium right now! This has the potential to kill an entire collection.
Some species appear resistant but others spread it quickly. Some commercial growers in Hawaii lost almost entire crops of ornamental Anthurium (the kind you buy in the store) so be very careful about buying any Anthurium in a local nursery or discount store!
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1392979/
Any of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass along what you know.
Steve
www.ExoticRainforest.com
Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they e-mail you.
_______________________________________________Aroid-L mailing listAroid-L@www.gizmoworks.comhttp://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
Windows Live Hotmail: Your friends can get your Facebook updates, right from HotmailŽ.--_47b61fe6-6853-4377-9bba-b439a76d2c22_----==============$13183279815617187= |
|
From: "Famille FERRY" <jpcferry2 at wanadoo.fr> on 2010.01.17 at 17:43:07(20484)
Dear aroiders ,
I also have this problem on some tasks oily Anthuriums.
Once a year, in autumn, I am treated with Bordeaux mixture.
The problem has stabilized.
Bordeaux mixture is obtained by mixing copper sulfate and hydrated lime well in water. This mixture should never be in a container of iron.
1.Within first container, dissolve 80 grams of lime in 5 liters of water.
2.If a second container, dissolve 150 grams of copper sulfate, also in 5 lites of water.
3.Mélangez both mixtures .
The best ,
Genevičve Ferry ,
Nancy Botanical Garden
| HTML +More | |
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Vannini
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
Steve:
Glad to have been of service.
Several clarifications appear in order.
- IMO, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that anthurium blight is not already in everyone's exotic aroid collection who is reading this, either manifest or latent.
- From old lab work I know that I have had at least three separate introductions into my own, from South Florida nurseries (1999-2000), from a domestic anthurium cut flower source (1998-2000), and from a commercial supplier in South America (this was diagnosed from tissue collected at port of entry by our Ag Ministry lab in 2003...at that time Xanthomonas campestris-positive did not require destruction of the plants so they were waived. Needless to say, I quarantined the blazes out of this and all subsequent commercial imports through 2006. Following ratification of DR-CAFTA we are now under the regional one size fits all rule...these plants would be incinerated if this import occurred today).
- Based on the protocol I outlined earlier, I grow many flawless, very blight-sensitive Anthurium spp. in close proximity to other plants with minor blight halos evident on leaf edges and have images to prove it.
- For George Yao's benefit, what I outlined in response to your initial posting IS an IPM-inspired protocol for control of this blight in private and public collections.
- Commercial growers have a vastly different set of challenges and require a very different protocol for blight management and require a somewhat different approach (see below).
- I have the short form product data sheet for Agri-mycin formulation that I use (manufactured at Pfizer's Toluca plant in México) before me. A correction to an earlier statement I made...it is in fact 15% streptomycin sulfate and 1.5% oxytetracycline + inert balance, not 17% streptomycin as I wrote. In any event, in free translation the sheet reads that the product is "recommended" for "control of the following diseases": "...bacterias caused by the genera Xanthomonas, Erwinia and Pseudomonas" in the "following crops": "Ornamentals"...Philodendron, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema."
- At yesterday's market close, Pfizer, Inc. market cap was almost US$ 160 BILLION.
- If, say, it were revealed that Pfizer, Inc.'s ag-chem division was making manifestly false claims regarding the efficacy of one of their mainstream products then, say, a well-heeled large ornamental plant grower might be tempted to sue their pants (and big pants they are!) off.
- Agri-mycin can provide very effective suppression (not cure) of anthurium blight in COLLECTIONS OF ORNAMENTALS when used properly in conjunction with a broader IPM-inspired protocol. It is NOT a panacea nor a silver bullet to eradicate anthurium blight and neither I (nor Pfizer) would ever claim that it is. However, it certainly can provide suppression to a point where healthy, well-grown plants can prosper with it latent in their environments. My own fairly large blight-susceptible aroid collection, plus several published sources, proves it.
- IMO, and as diplomatically-put as possible; anyone who claims otherwise doesn't know what he/she doesn't know.
- If a given grower blithely continues to challenge their blight-susceptible tropical aroids with environmental (note: IME, lousy water quality aggravates anthurium blight in delicate plants for certain) or management issues, this critter will ultimately (often in short order) decimate all those vulnerable plants and nothing short of Divine Intervention will save them. Don't waste your money on ag-chem if you are not willing to practice clean culture - it won't really help.
Thus, from a hobbyists' perspective, successful management of this nasty pathogen requires a certain mindset and quite a bit of discipline with regard to handling and triage of visibly-affected plants. Believe me, it works. Conversely, commercial growers have, in the past, been faced with no other economically viable option other than having to destroy their entire blight-susceptible inventory and start afresh with new cultivation protocols and blight-resistant stock from micropropagation. This also works, but at a very steep price.
All those here who are willing to properly dispose of the entirety of their exotic aroid collections just because they contain some suspicious-looking or blight-diagnosed rare plants and start all over with those handsome (the colors!!!) tissue-cultured, mass-produced, PATENTED (no unauthorized asexual propagation, folks) anthuriums, aglaonemas, alocasias and philodendrons, please hold up your hands.
Didin't think so...
J
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:35:09 -0600
From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
Thanks Jay. My knowledge of this stuff is very limited but it did concern me once I began to read some of the info on the internet. We see lots of poorly grown ornamental Anthurium in some of our local stores, often showing signs of what may be disease. I have a relative that is a district manager for a large retailer and he says they throw away lots of plants as a result. I just wouldn't want anyone to get the stuff in a prized collection.
Thanks again for the info.
Steve
www.ExoticRainforest.com
Jay Vannini wrote:
Steve:
Anthurium blight has been with us forever and affects a wide range of aroid genera. Breeders, including me, often select for plants that show apparent tolerance to it but generally have learned to live with it lurking in the wings. I am not sure that there are any Anthurium spp. nor hybrids that are truly 100% blight-resistant, although the riparians antioquiense and amnicola are known to transmit their tolerance to andraeanum hybrid (the so-called andraecolas) offspring. Conversely, there are a number of old andraeanum and crystallinum hybrids and quite a few montane spp. that are exquisitely susceptible to blight. Whether or not we are seeing more aggressive strains emerging in the trade is another matter entirely; I have not imported stock from the 'States since 2006 so would not be the right individual to address this possibility. It would be interesting to hear from Denis Rotolante, who would certainly know whether they are seeing new antibiotic-resistant strains, and with whom I exchanged info on Xanthomonas management in greenhouses in 2000-2001.
I completely disagree with the notion that small scale growers cannot effectively control this blight and should not be buying anthuriums now because of it (!!!). While the last time I actually had a lab make a positive pathogen determination for me was almost 10 years back, I think many of us know it when we see it, and I certainly no longer have the dread that I used to have for it when I first started growing anthurium in the late 90s. I suffered a number of severe outbreaks stemming from imported plants early in the last decade but, frankly, I have not had a serious problem with it for years in spite of growing more than "just a few" plants for cut flower ('Tropic Fire' and my own hoffmannii based hybrids) and 0000s of foliage-type collector goodies.
Basically, what makes anthurium blight control especially difficult for commercial growers is that the pathogen is rapidly spread, not only by mechanical means such as non-disinfected cutting tools, employees' hands, clothes, etc. - DR mentioned once that Cuban treefrogs clambering from plant to plant in his greenhouses were a suspected vector! - but also by splashing water and leaves banging against each other (this is a bad thing generally for all anthuriums!). Anyone who has this problem should be extremely careful to avoid "hard" overhead watering or exposure to rain. While this seems counterintuitive to a tropical aroid fan, bestest and fastest control is gained when foliage is kept dry, well-ventilated but nearly motionless in order to minimize mechanical damage to the leaves that facilitates entry for the bacteria.
- My frontline treatment for foliar infection is Agrimycin (streptomycin sulfate 17%) AFTER removing all visibly infected plant tissue to a point well beyond the classic yellow halo line circumscribing necrotic tissue. I would need to check my notes to see at what concentrations I usually apply, but I do seem to recall that I make three apps about 5-8 days apart. I often rotate or follow-up with copper-based ag-chem although it is contra-indicated in the literature...some have recommended systemic copper but I have found it unnecessary, expensive and quite phytotoxic.
- While I occasionally use concentrated quat ammonium dips for disinfecting my pruners (at least three in the greenhouse, used in rotation), I definitely favor flaming tools between cuts to all my plants to red hot. If you do not consistently disinfect tools between plants, IMO, you will never gain good blight control once it is firmly established in your collection.
- It is VERY important to remove infected leaves once they are visibly blighted to avoid the blight becoming systemic. I will say that my experience has been that if one permits a severe blight to extend from the lamina down the petiole (which will often mush at the geniculum and the base) to the main stem, the plant is generally going to hand in its lunch pail in very short order. If this occurs, toss these critters asap.
- It seems that many growers-gardeners love to fondle their plants when they're in their grow spaces. I cannot emphasize enough that any handling of aroids that are known or suspected of being blighted should be kept to an absolute minimum, and hands disinfected between this kind of manipulation.
Note: IME, Agrimycin will invariably burn/disfigure leaves of Anthurium veitchii and its hybrids, usually quite severely, as well as some old andraeanum primary hybrids and few others. It can also be extremely hard on seedlings.
J
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:54:00 -0600
From: Steve@exoticrainforest.com
To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com
Subject: [Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
A warning from our friend Leland Miyano from information originating from botanist David Scherberich.
There is now a very bad Anthurium blight which may be spreading. At least two gardens in France have had to deal with this one which has no cure. The one that is really bad is Xanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae which causes the leaf margins to turn yellow and all the leaves to drop. I would suggest you be very careful about buying new Anthurium right now! This has the potential to kill an entire collection.
Some species appear resistant but others spread it quickly. Some commercial growers in Hawaii lost almost entire crops of ornamental Anthurium (the kind you buy in the store) so be very careful about buying any Anthurium in a local nursery or discount store!
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1392979/
Any of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass along what you know.
Steve
www.ExoticRainforest.com
Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they e-mail you.
_______________________________________________Aroid-L mailing listAroid-L@www.gizmoworks.comhttp://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
_______________________________________________
Aroid-L mailing list
Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com
http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01CA97A4.E8F85520----==============e61477671248970057= |
|
From: ExoticRainforest <Steve at ExoticRainforest.com> on 2010.01.17 at 21:08:33(20485)
Good info! Thanks!
Steve
| HTML +More |
Jay Vannini wrote:
Steve:
Glad to have been of service.
Several clarifications appear in order.
- IMO, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that anthurium blight is not already ineveryone's exotic aroid collection who is reading this, either manifestor latent.
- From old lab work I know that I have had at least three separateintroductions into my own, from South Florida nurseries (1999-2000),from a domestic anthurium cut flower source (1998-2000), and from acommercial supplier in South America (this was diagnosed from tissuecollected at port of entry by our Ag Ministry lab in 2003...at thattime Xanthomonas campestris-positive did not require destruction of theplants so they were waived. Needless to say, I quarantined the blazesout of this and all subsequent commercial imports through2006. Following ratification of DR-CAFTA we are now under the regionalone size fits all rule...these plants would be incinerated if thisimport occurred today).
- Based on the protocol I outlined earlier, I grow many flawless, veryblight-sensitive Anthurium spp. in close proximity to other plants withminor blight halos evident on leaf edges and have images to prove it.
- For George Yao's benefit, what I outlined in response to your initialposting IS an IPM-inspired protocol for control of this blight inprivate and public collections.
- Commercial growers have a vastly different set of challenges andrequire a very different protocol for blight management and require asomewhat different approach (see below).
- I have the short form product data sheet for Agri-mycin formulationthat I use (manufactured at Pfizer's Toluca plant in MĂŠxico) before me.A correction to an earlier statement I made...it is in fact 15%streptomycin sulfate and 1.5% oxytetracycline + inert balance, not 17%streptomycin as I wrote. In any event, in free translation the sheetreads that the product is "recommended" for "control of thefollowing diseases": "...bacterias caused by the genera Xanthomonas,Erwinia and Pseudomonas" in the "following crops":"Ornamentals"...Philodendron, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema."
- At yesterday's market close, Pfizer, Inc. market cap was almost US$160 BILLION.
- If, say, it were revealed that Pfizer, Inc.'s ag-chemdivision was making manifestly false claims regarding the efficacy ofone of their mainstream products then, say, a well-heeled largeornamental plant grower might be tempted to sue their pants (and bigpants they are!) off.
- Agri-mycin can provide very effective suppression (not cure) ofanthurium blight in COLLECTIONS OF ORNAMENTALS when used properly inconjunction with a broader IPM-inspired protocol. It is NOT a panaceanor a silver bullet to eradicate anthurium blight and neither I (norPfizer) would ever claim that it is. However, it certainly can providesuppression to a point where healthy, well-grown plants can prosperwith it latent in their environments. My own fairly largeblight-susceptible aroid collection, plus several publishedsources, proves it.
- IMO, and as diplomatically-put as possible; anyone who claimsotherwise doesn't know what he/she doesn't know.
- If a given grower blithely continues to challenge theirblight-susceptible tropical aroids with environmental (note: IME, lousywater quality aggravates anthurium blight in delicate plants forcertain) or management issues, this critter will ultimately (often inshort order) decimate all those vulnerable plants and nothing short ofDivine Intervention will save them. Don't waste your money on ag-chemif you are not willing to practice clean culture - it won't really help.
Thus, from a hobbyists' perspective, successful management of thisnasty pathogen requires a certain mindset and quite a bit of disciplinewith regard to handling and triage of visibly-affected plants. Believeme, it works. Conversely, commercial growers have, in the past, beenfaced with no other economically viable option other than having todestroy their entire blight-susceptible inventory and start afresh withnew cultivation protocols and blight-resistant stock frommicropropagation. This also works, but at a very steep price.
All those here who are willing to properly dispose of the entirety oftheir exotic aroid collections just because they contain somesuspicious-looking or blight-diagnosed rare plants and start all overwith those handsome (the colors!!!) tissue-cultured,mass-produced, PATENTED (no unauthorized asexual propagation,folks) anthuriums, aglaonemas, alocasias and philodendrons, please holdup your hands.
Didin't think so...
J
--------------070903050901050700090903 |
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