> leave mine in the ground for a month or more AFTER the leaves 'go down',
> was told by an old grower at Lake Placid that the roots continue to allow
> the tubers to develop AFTER the leaves are lost, and since they do it, I
> tried it, and it works for me!
> I then dig them up and store them in labled paper bags in my unheated
> (in W.P.B., Florida) where when it warms up in spring the bulbs will
> to sprout, letting me know that it`s time to plant them out again!
> See my other posting on this virus. I`m not worried about it, as it has
> been around for YEARS, I`ve seen it in MANY collections on MANY species
> (including Amorphophallus sps ). It can come and go, as I used to have
> on a Xanthosoma, and in the last couple of years it seems to have gone
> I do not know for sure, but believe it stays with tuberous aroids of only
> certain families such as Colocasia, Alocasia, Caladium, Amorphophallus,
> I do not believe that it affects Philodendrons, etc., but could be wrong
> Cheers and good luck,
>my experience growing them outdoors in the summer and bringing them inside
dormant in the fall is that the tubers decrease in size and vigor over the
years, something that i had read in some book taht advised buying them every
year, treating them as annuals.
tsuh yang chen, nyc, USA<
GREAT advice (and a wonderful buisness strategy, I may add!) from the folks
who grow them as a buisness, and depend on you and me to buy new ones EVERY
IF they have enough 'growing season' they do fine and increase in tuber size
and quantity EVERY year, as demonstrated by the huge acreages grown here in
Cen. Florida which produce MILLIONS of new tubers EVERY year for sale to
folks who are advised to buy new ones EVERY year, treat them as an annual.