Growing arums in pots

From: Don Martinson <llmen at wi.rr.com> on 2012.01.20 at 02:23:26(22507) I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson +More Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: "E.Vincent Morano" <ironious2 at yahoo.com> on 2012.01.20 at 05:33:19(22508) Im doing it. it works fine From: Don Martinson To: "aroid-l@gizmoworks.com" HTML +More Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 6:23 PM Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l ---1134493521-510966106-1327037599=:55099-- --==============r18026821942159005==

From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2012.01.20 at 05:40:44(22509) Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete +More -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: michael kolaczewski <mjkolaffhbc at sbcglobal.net> on 2012.01.20 at 05:55:55(22510) Greetings Don, ( and Happy New Year !!) I usually grow non hardy aroids in containers that are deeper, for a number of reasons. A deeper pot helps move water through the media. A well draining mix, while retaining moisture, should not remain saturated. The addition of some drainage material, for instance pot shards, aquarium gravel, pumice, etc, will help to facilitate water moving out of the pot. If these containers will be outside, I usually have them sitting on a few bricks or utility tiles to ensure that water will not wick back into the potting media. Since you and I share similar Hardiness and weather zones, Our summers here in the Midwest USA, can be challenging for growing some plants, and while they may like or need warm weather, do not want to be soaked, as our rainy weather can and does affect both in ground and container plantings during the growing season. I set out tender plants daily in spring, bringing them in at night. Only after the danger of frost has past, do they stay outdoors 24 /7. I will incorporate a short term fertilizer, usually 90 days duration, into the media. I do supplement this with liquid fertilizer at third of recommended label strength, about once every 3 weeks, during the outdoor growing season. I apply a layer of gravel or mulch to help keep weed seeds out of the pots. I also watch for various ants, who seem to like to move into pots, and later can move into the house, when you bring the pots back in. Once the corms have gone dormant, I check for any disease issues, clean up any soft spots, and repot if needed. I will attach a photo of the mix I use, which is composed of Pine Bark fines ( 3/8 of an inch ) Rice Hulls, A composted Peat Moss, some leaf mold, and sometimes perlite. Depending on what type of plants are going to grown in the mix, I may add an additional mineral, or even a wetting / moisture retention product, if needed for cultural needs. Take Care, Michael HTML +More ---153488663-1775462365-1327038956=:97724-- ---153488663-976479921-1327038956=:97724

From: "Paul T." <ptyerman at ozemail.com.au> on 2012.01.20 at 06:29:33(22511) At 01:23 PM 20/01/2012, you wrote: >I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriac um >and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain >they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in >winter. > >Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me >some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Don, I grow all my Arums in pots, outside in the open in my climate. The majority flower most years. I am guessing that I am likely warmer than you though? Cheers. Paul T. +More Canberra, Australia - USDA Zone Equivalent approx. 8/9 Min winter temp -8 or -9�C. Max summer temp 40�C. Thankfully, maybe once or twice a year only. Growing an eclectic collection of plants from all over the world including Aroids, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Galanthus, Irises, Liliums, Trilliums (to name but a few) and just about anything else that doesn't move!! _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l

From: The Silent Seed <santoury at aol.com> on 2012.01.20 at 13:16:32(22512) Hi, I grow everything in pots - just treat them as houseplants - just know their dormancy cycle (The plants will tell you) and withhold water during this time. I use regular dirt, and keep them moist, but not wet. HTML +More ______________________________________________ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Do you want to receive my plant newsletters via email? santoury@aol.com The Silent Seed - Rare and Unusual Plants ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Don Martinson To: aroid-l Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2012 7:08 pm Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l ----------MB_8CEA58CDCCE210F_F54_1CECF_web-mmc-d10.sysops.aol.com-- --==============533202445112527573==

From: "D. Christopher Rogers" <branchiopod at gmail.com> on 2012.01.20 at 15:43:43(22513) Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher HTML +More On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: DAVID LEEDY <djleedy at sbcglobal.net> on 2012.01.21 at 12:48:13(22515) Peter, I really appreciate your posts to Aroidl, as well as your book on Arum. As I continue, I will try to adapt my cultural procedures to those you suggest. I am now satisfied that growing arum in containers in Fort Worth, Texas, USA, is not a problem due to the cold winter weather. However, I am not sure if the long, hot summers will not prove to be the major obstacle I face. Although a bit unusual, last summer we experienced 59 days where the temperature was 100 degrees F. or above (37.78 C.). The night time temperature was 60 degrees F. or above ( 15.57 C.) and quite a few nights it was above 70 degrees F. (21.11 C.) during the summer. Any suggestions on how to keep the "resting pots someplace not too hot" and how to keep the resting pots [so that the planting mix] "do[es] NOT become excessively dry? David Leedy HTML +More --- On Thu, 1/19/12, Peter Boyce wrote: From: Peter Boyce Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "'Discussion of aroids'" Date: Thursday, January 19, 2012, 11:40 PM Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com target=_blank>http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l --1944329922-1020716362-1327150093=:62582-- --==============H43764205624774774==

From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2012.01.23 at 23:35:02(22518) Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter HTML +More From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2012.01.24 at 07:32:15(22519) David, The best option is to try to plunge the pots up to the rims in a sand bed someplace shady and to keep the sand just damp. If space allows keep a pots width distance between each pot, from from the pots to the edge of the sand (if the sand is retained by walls. Alternatively dig a trench deep enough to contain the pots to their own depth, line with plastic sheet, punch a lot of holes in the sheet to enable drainage, and then full with sand. The problem with the latter option is that in time roots of nearby plants will infiltrate. Peter HTML +More On 21 January 2012 20:48, DAVID LEEDY wrote: Peter, I really appreciate your posts to Aroidl, as well as your book on Arum. As I continue, I will try to adapt my cultural procedures to those you suggest. I am now satisfied that growing arum in containers in Fort Worth, Texas, USA, is not a problem due to the cold winter weather. However, I am not sure if the long, hot summers will not prove to be the major obstacle I face. Although a bit unusual, last summer we experienced 59 days where the temperature was 100 degrees F. or above (37.78 C.). The night time temperature was 60 degrees F. or above ( 15.57 C.) and quite a few nights it was above 70 degrees F. (21.11 C.) during the summer. Any suggestions on how to keep the "resting pots someplace not too hot" and how to keep the resting pots [so that the planting mix] "do[es] NOT become excessively dry? David Leedy --- On Thu, 1/19/12, Peter Boyce wrote: From: Peter Boyce Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "'Discussion of aroids'" Date: Thursday, January 19, 2012, 11:40 PM Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l --0016e6de00b167a19e04b74125ed-- --==============!98023094727773572==

From: "D. Christopher Rogers" <branchiopod at gmail.com> on 2012.01.24 at 15:54:00(22522) Dear David, When I lived in the Mediterranean climate of northern California, I had summer temperatures that reached 48 degrees C/ 120 degrees F. I used to just put the pots on the north side of the shade house, in the shade, no direct sun and no water. They did just fine. I had A. italicum, pupureospathum, dioscoridis, palestinum, sintenesii, hygrophilum, cyrenaicum, and pictum all do just fine under these conditions. I grew them in large pots, similar to what Pete described, is a soil mix that was one part peat, one part pumice, two parts sand, and two parts well rotted dry compost. The Arum pictum was moved out to sunny location in late August and started getting water when the inflorescences first started poking up. The others were moved out into the same area in November and started getting water (rain) at that time. Cheers, Christopher HTML +More On Sat, Jan 21, 2012 at 6:48 AM, DAVID LEEDY wrote: -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: "D. Christopher Rogers" <branchiopod at gmail.com> on 2012.01.24 at 15:44:24(22523) Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher HTML +More On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers � did you get �the �Decade of Change� paper � but that aside the new monograph will be someone else�s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2012.01.24 at 18:00:20(22524) Hello, I have grown Arum concinnatum and A. hygrophilum in pots. I use standard pot mix and the pots are 4-6" (10-15 cm) depending on the tuber (rhizome) size. A. concinnatum bloomed three years in a row, from March to May, I lost it when I planted it outdoors and the winter was extremally cold in my area (down to -23C -10F) A. hygrophilum (a new tuber tat I got last summer) bloomed in December, and a second inflorescence a few weeks after (now). The only problem may be spider mites, they can appear on Arum leaves from nowhere, even if all plants at home are healthy. I sprayed the leaves only once using Agrecol Magus 200SC, and they disappeared. http://araceum.abrimaal.pro-e.pl/arum/concinnatum.htm http://araceum.abrimaal.pro-e.pl/arum/hygrophilum.htm Best Regards, Marek HTML +More I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: Sheldon Hatheway <sfhatheway at yahoo.com> on 2012.01.25 at 18:54:27(22533) I must be missing something here. I've grown Arum italicum in my back yard (and thanks to birds dropping seeds, in my front and side yards also) for at least 40 years and they are just one short step away from becoming invasive weeds! I haven't tried any of the other arums mentioned for fear that they would take over like the italicums. Here in our part of the Pacific Northwest the temps can occasionally get down to near zero F. and it rains throughout most of the winter. Fortunately we have a sandy loam in our part of town so water never stands for long, even in heavy rains (like the last few days). Maybe I should man up and try some of the other arums and see if they would do well outside all year long as well. Sheldon HTML +More Hatheway Canby OR 97013 Zone 7B (or something like that) From: D. Christopher Rogers To: Discussion of aroids Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 7:44 AM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: DAVID LEEDY <djleedy at sbcglobal.net> on 2012.01.27 at 18:36:38(22542) Dear Peter, The problem with writing a book is that you now become the expert on that subject, even when you want to go on to other things. I hope you bear with me (us). Your 1993 book, "The Genus Arum," lists 25 species. I read in the publication of Arum megobrebi (2007?) that there are now 29 species. I assume that numbers 26-28 were described in the 2006 revision of your book. Is there someplace, other than the 2006 revision, that I can find those descriptions? How many species are there now in 2011, what are they, and how can I find descriptions? Also, if I read your book correctly (ref. page 133), arum detruncatum, as shown in Vol. 30 - 2007 issue of AROIDEANA should have been labeled as arum rupicola, var. rupicola. Was that an error in AROIDEANA? Again, I apologize for my inability to read "scientific stuff," but aren't Bedalov and Kupfer suggesting that A. cylindraceum and A. sintensii are species in their 2006 article "Studies on the Genus Arum" in Vol. 29 of AROIDEANA? Also, in their species charts, they seem to have omitted both A. alpinum and A. lucanum. If they are of the A. alpinum = A. maculatum school, as described in your book, then I can understand why they may have omitted it. However, you have listed A. lucanum as being from Southern Italy, so one would think that it should have been included in their charts? So, just how many species are there now? What are they? Where can descriptions be found? And is a referee or umpire needed for taxonomists? Thank you. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus HTML +More --- On Tue, 1/24/12, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: From: D. Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Tuesday, January 24, 2012, 9:44 AM Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com target=_blank>http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2012.02.01 at 07:30:02(22545) Hi David, Yes, there have been a few changes since 1993 and even since 2006. sintensii was ‘raised’ to spevcies in the 2006 paper; cylindraceum (which I treated as a nom. dub. in 1993) has been shown to be the same as A. alpinum and, as it was published earlier, now must be used. Arum lucanum is a syn. of A. cylindraceum (tackled in 2006) Regarding descriptions, sorry, but for most of those not in the book you have to go back to the original publication place. Of course this raises new problems in that most are not described in English. The full ‘official’ list for Arum is: 1. Arum alpinariae (K.Alpinar & R.R.Mill) P.C.Boyce 2. Arum amoenum (Engl.) Dubovik 3. Arum apulum (Carano) P.C.Boyce 4. Arum balansanum R.R.Mill. 5. Arum besserianum Schott 6. Arum byzantinum Blume 7. Arum concinnatum Schott 8. Arum creticum Boiss. & Heldr. 9. Arum cylindraceum Gasp. 10. Arum cyrenaicum Hruby 11. Arum dioscoridis Sm. 12. Arum elongatum Steven 13. Arum euxinum R.R.Mill 14. Arum gallowayi sp. nov. ined. 15. Arum gratum Schott 16. Arum hainesii Agnew & Hadac ex H. Riedl 17. Arum hygrophilum Boiss. 18. Arum idaeum Coust. & Gandoger 19. Arum italicum Miller ssp. albispathum (Steven ex Ledeb.) Prime ssp. canariensis (Webb. & Berth.) P.C.Boyce 20. Arum jacquemontii Blume 21. Arum korolkowii Regel 22. Arum longispathum Reich. 23. Arum maculatum L. 24. Arum maurum (Braun-Blanq. & Maire) stat. nov. ined. 25. Arum megobrebi Lobin, M.Neumann, Bogner & P.C.Boyce 26. Arum melanopus Schott 27. Arum nigrum Schott 28. Arum orientale Bieb. 29. Arum palaestinum Boiss. Arum pictum L.f. = Gymnomesium pictum (L.f.) Schott 30. Arum purpureospathum P.C.Boyce 31. Arum rupicola Boiss. 32. Arum sintenisii (Engl.) P.C.Boyce In addition to the above, I am aware of five further novel species (but of which I have seen only images) that are in cultivation in the USA, the Netherlands & Poland. I am also now convinced that my treatment of the species A. rupicola and A. orientale were both too broad: at least A. conophalloides, Arum consobrinum Schott, and A. incomptum probably need to be resurrected. Regarding ‘refereeing’ – no-one does this; it is all down to general acceptance. Peter HTML +More From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of DAVID LEEDY Sent: Saturday, 28 January, 2012 2:37 AM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Dear Peter, The problem with writing a book is that you now become the expert on that subject, even when you want to go on to other things. I hope you bear with me (us). Your 1993 book, "The Genus Arum," lists 25 species. I read in the publication of Arum megobrebi (2007?) that there are now 29 species. I assume that numbers 26-28 were described in the 2006 revision of your book. Is there someplace, other than the 2006 revision, that I can find those descriptions? How many species are there now in 2011, what are they, and how can I find descriptions? Also, if I read your book correctly (ref. page 133), arum detruncatum, as shown in Vol. 30 - 2007 issue of AROIDEANA should have been labeled as arum rupicola, var. rupicola. Was that an error in AROIDEANA? Again, I apologize for my inability to read "scientific stuff," but aren't Bedalov and Kupfer suggesting that A. cylindraceum and A. sintensii are species in their 2006 article "Studies on the Genus Arum" in Vol. 29 of AROIDEANA? Also, in their species charts, they seem to have omitted both A. alpinum and A. lucanum. If they are of the A. alpinum = A. maculatum school, as described in your book, then I can understand why they may have omitted it. However, you have listed A. lucanum as being from Southern Italy, so one would think that it should have been included in their charts? So, just how many species are there now? What are they? Where can descriptions be found? And is a referee or umpire needed for taxonomists? Thank you. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus --- On Tue, 1/24/12, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: From: D. Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Tuesday, January 24, 2012, 9:44 AM Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: DAVID LEEDY <djleedy at sbcglobal.net> on 2012.02.01 at 13:47:19(22546) Subsequent to the below posting, I have found "A Decade of Change" by P.C. Boyce in the 2006 issue of AROIDEANA, Volume 29. Although I have not yet thoroughly read that article, it is obvious that just how many arum species exist is a complex issue, which varies as time continues. So, I believe that my question as to "how many species are there" is a little naive. Thanks. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus HTML +More --- On Fri, 1/27/12, DAVID LEEDY wrote: From: DAVID LEEDY Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Friday, January 27, 2012, 12:36 PM Dear Peter, The problem with writing a book is that you now become the expert on that subject, even when you want to go on to other things. I hope you bear with me (us). Your 1993 book, "The Genus Arum," lists 25 species. I read in the publication of Arum megobrebi (2007?) that there are now 29 species. I assume that numbers 26-28 were described in the 2006 revision of your book. Is there someplace, other than the 2006 revision, that I can find those descriptions? How many species are there now in 2011, what are they, and how can I find descriptions? Also, if I read your book correctly (ref. page 133), arum detruncatum, as shown in Vol. 30 - 2007 issue of AROIDEANA should have been labeled as arum rupicola, var. rupicola. Was that an error in AROIDEANA? Again, I apologize for my inability to read "scientific stuff," but aren't Bedalov and Kupfer suggesting that A. cylindraceum and A. sintensii are species in their 2006 article "Studies on the Genus Arum" in Vol. 29 of AROIDEANA? Also, in their species charts, they seem to have omitted both A. alpinum and A. lucanum. If they are of the A. alpinum = A. maculatum school, as described in your book, then I can understand why they may have omitted it. However, you have listed A. lucanum as being from Southern Italy, so one would think that it should have been included in their charts? So, just how many species are there now? What are they? Where can descriptions be found? And is a referee or umpire needed for taxonomists? Thank you. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus --- On Tue, 1/24/12, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: From: D. Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Tuesday, January 24, 2012, 9:44 AM Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com target=_blank>http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: DAVID LEEDY <djleedy at sbcglobal.net> on 2012.02.04 at 20:21:11(22551) Peter, Thank you so much. Your response is really appreciated by this novice enthusiast. David Leedy HTML +More --- On Wed, 2/1/12, Peter Boyce wrote: From: Peter Boyce Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "'Discussion of aroids'" Date: Wednesday, February 1, 2012, 1:30 AM Hi David, Yes, there have been a few changes since 1993 and even since 2006. sintensii was ‘raised’ to spevcies in the 2006 paper; cylindraceum (which I treated as a nom. dub. in 1993) has been shown to be the same as A. alpinum and, as it was published earlier, now must be used. Arum lucanum is a syn. of A. cylindraceum (tackled in 2006) Regarding descriptions, sorry, but for most of those not in the book you have to go back to the original publication place. Of course this raises new problems in that most are not described in English. The full ‘official’ list for Arum is: 1. Arum alpinariae (K.Alpinar & R.R.Mill) P.C.Boyce 2. Arum amoenum (Engl.) Dubovik 3. Arum apulum (Carano) P.C.Boyce 4. Arum balansanum R.R.Mill. 5. Arum besserianum Schott 6. Arum byzantinum Blume 7. Arum concinnatum Schott 8. Arum creticum Boiss. & Heldr. 9. Arum cylindraceum Gasp. 10. Arum cyrenaicum Hruby 11. Arum dioscoridis Sm. 12. Arum elongatum Steven 13. Arum euxinum R.R.Mill 14. Arum gallowayi sp. nov. ined. 15. Arum gratum Schott 16. Arum hainesii Agnew & Hadac ex H. Riedl 17. Arum hygrophilum Boiss. 18. Arum idaeum Coust. & Gandoger 19. Arum italicum Miller ssp. albispathum (Steven ex Ledeb.) Prime ssp. canariensis (Webb. & Berth.) P.C.Boyce 20. Arum jacquemontii Blume 21. Arum korolkowii Regel 22. Arum longispathum Reich. 23. Arum maculatum L. 24. Arum maurum (Braun-Blanq. & Maire) stat. nov. ined. 25. Arum megobrebi Lobin, M.Neumann, Bogner & P.C.Boyce 26. Arum melanopus Schott 27. Arum nigrum Schott 28. Arum orientale Bieb. 29. Arum palaestinum Boiss. Arum pictum L.f. = Gymnomesium pictum (L.f.) Schott 30. Arum purpureospathum P.C.Boyce 31. Arum rupicola Boiss. 32. Arum sintenisii (Engl.) P.C.Boyce In addition to the above, I am aware of five further novel species (but of which I have seen only images) that are in cultivation in the USA, the Netherlands & Poland. I am also now convinced that my treatment of the species A. rupicola and A. orientale were both too broad: at least A. conophalloides, Arum consobrinum Schott, and A. incomptum probably need to be resurrected. Regarding ‘refereeing’ – no-one does this; it is all down to general acceptance. Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of DAVID LEEDY Sent: Saturday, 28 January, 2012 2:37 AM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Dear Peter, The problem with writing a book is that you now become the expert on that subject, even when you want to go on to other things. I hope you bear with me (us). Your 1993 book, "The Genus Arum," lists 25 species. I read in the publication of Arum megobrebi (2007?) that there are now 29 species. I assume that numbers 26-28 were described in the 2006 revision of your book. Is there someplace, other than the 2006 revision, that I can find those descriptions? How many species are there now in 2011, what are they, and how can I find descriptions? Also, if I read your book correctly (ref. page 133), arum detruncatum, as shown in Vol. 30 - 2007 issue of AROIDEANA should have been labeled as arum rupicola, var. rupicola. Was that an error in AROIDEANA? Again, I apologize for my inability to read "scientific stuff," but aren't Bedalov and Kupfer suggesting that A. cylindraceum and A. sintensii are species in their 2006 article "Studies on the Genus Arum" in Vol. 29 of AROIDEANA? Also, in their species charts, they seem to have omitted both A. alpinum and A. lucanum. If they are of the A. alpinum = A. maculatum school, as described in your book, then I can understand why they may have omitted it. However, you have listed A. lucanum as being from Southern Italy, so one would think that it should have been included in their charts? So, just how many species are there now? What are they? Where can descriptions be found? And is a referee or umpire needed for taxonomists? Thank you. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus --- On Tue, 1/24/12, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: From: D. Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Tuesday, January 24, 2012, 9:44 AM Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: "D. Christopher Rogers" <branchiopod at gmail.com> on 2012.02.06 at 16:13:48(22553) Thanks for the great review of the species in Arum. One issue though, Peter: you said that there is no refereeing, just general acceptance. I have no real clue how things are done in the botanical realm, but in the zoological realm all species descriptions that are submitted to quality scientific white literature (as opposed to grey) type journals are in fact refereed. Typically, two to four referees give the manuscripts a solid review before they are accepted (or rejected) for publication. There are certain standards of taxonomy in zoology. Happy days, Christopher HTML +More On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 1:30 AM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi David, Yes, there have been a few changes since 1993 and even since 2006. sintensii was �raised� to spevcies in the 2006 paper; cylindraceum (which I treated as a nom. dub. in 1993) has been shown to be the same as A. alpinum and, as it was published earlier, now must be used. Arum lucanum is a syn. of A. cylindraceum (tackled in 2006) Regarding descriptions, sorry, but for most of those not in the book you have to go back to the original publication place. Of course this raises new problems in that most are not described in English. The full �official� list for Arum is: 1. Arum alpinariae (K.Alpinar & R.R.Mill) P.C.Boyce 2. Arum amoenum (Engl.) Dubovik 3. Arum apulum (Carano) P.C.Boyce 4. Arum balansanum R.R.Mill. 5. Arum besserianum Schott 6. Arum byzantinum Blume 7. Arum concinnatum Schott 8. Arum creticum Boiss. & Heldr. 9. Arum cylindraceum Gasp. 10. Arum cyrenaicum Hruby 11. Arum dioscoridis Sm. 12. Arum elongatum Steven 13. Arum euxinum R.R.Mill 14. Arum gallowayi sp. nov. ined. 15. Arum gratum Schott 16. Arum hainesii Agnew & Hadac ex H. Riedl 17. Arum hygrophilum Boiss. 18. Arum idaeum Coust. & Gandoger 19. Arum italicum Miller ssp. albispathum (Steven ex Ledeb.) Prime ssp. canariensis (Webb. & Berth.) P.C.Boyce 20. Arum jacquemontii Blume 21. Arum korolkowii Regel 22. Arum longispathum Reich. 23. Arum maculatum L. 24. Arum maurum (Braun-Blanq. & Maire) stat. nov. ined. 25. Arum megobrebi Lobin, M.Neumann, Bogner & P.C.Boyce 26. Arum melanopus Schott 27. Arum nigrum Schott 28. Arum orientale Bieb. 29. Arum palaestinum Boiss. Arum pictum L.f. = Gymnomesium pictum (L.f.) Schott 30. Arum purpureospathum P.C.Boyce 31. Arum rupicola Boiss. 32. Arum sintenisii (Engl.) P.C.Boyce In addition to the above, I am aware of five further novel species (but of which I have seen only images) that are in cultivation in the USA, the Netherlands & Poland. I am also now convinced that my treatment of the species A. rupicola and A. orientale were both too broad: at least A. conophalloides, Arum consobrinum Schott, and A. incomptum probably need to be resurrected. Regarding �refereeing� � no-one does this; it is all down to general acceptance. Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of DAVID LEEDY Sent: Saturday, 28 January, 2012 2:37 AM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Dear Peter, The problem with writing a book is that you now become the expert on that subject, even when you want to go on to other things. I hope you bear with me (us). Your 1993 book, "The Genus Arum," lists 25 species. I read in the publication of Arum megobrebi (2007?) that there are now 29 species. I assume that numbers 26-28 were described in the 2006 revision of your book. Is there someplace, other than the 2006 revision, that I can find those descriptions? How many species are there now in 2011, what are they, and how can I find descriptions? Also, if I read your book correctly (ref. page 133), arum detruncatum, as shown in Vol. 30 - 2007 issue of AROIDEANA should have been labeled as arum rupicola, var. rupicola. Was that an error in AROIDEANA? Again, I apologize for my inability to read "scientific stuff," but aren't Bedalov and Kupfer suggesting that A. cylindraceum and A. sintensii are species in their 2006 article "Studies on the Genus Arum" in Vol. 29 of AROIDEANA? Also, in their species charts, they seem to have omitted both A. alpinum and A. lucanum. If they are of the A. alpinum = A. maculatum school, as described in your book, then I can understand why they may have omitted it. However, you have listed A. lucanum as being from Southern Italy, so one would think that it should have been included in their charts? So, just how many species are there now? What are they? Where can descriptions be found? And is a referee or umpire needed for taxonomists? Thank you. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus --- On Tue, 1/24/12, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: From: D. Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Tuesday, January 24, 2012, 9:44 AM Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers � did you get �the �Decade of Change� paper � but that aside the new monograph will be someone else�s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: Peter Boyce <phymatarum at googlemail.com> on 2012.02.07 at 23:55:55(22561) Hi Christopher, Sorry, I thought you were referring to acceptance of names post-publication (for which in Fungi there IS a committee). In order to publish in botany there are the same set of “hurdles” as there are for zoology. Very best Peter HTML +More From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Tuesday, 7 February, 2012 12:14 AM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Thanks for the great review of the species in Arum. One issue though, Peter: you said that there is no refereeing, just general acceptance. I have no real clue how things are done in the botanical realm, but in the zoological realm all species descriptions that are submitted to quality scientific white literature (as opposed to grey) type journals are in fact refereed. Typically, two to four referees give the manuscripts a solid review before they are accepted (or rejected) for publication. There are certain standards of taxonomy in zoology. Happy days, Christopher On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 1:30 AM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi David, Yes, there have been a few changes since 1993 and even since 2006. sintensii was ‘raised’ to spevcies in the 2006 paper; cylindraceum (which I treated as a nom. dub. in 1993) has been shown to be the same as A. alpinum and, as it was published earlier, now must be used. Arum lucanum is a syn. of A. cylindraceum (tackled in 2006) Regarding descriptions, sorry, but for most of those not in the book you have to go back to the original publication place. Of course this raises new problems in that most are not described in English. The full ‘official’ list for Arum is: 1. Arum alpinariae (K.Alpinar & R.R.Mill) P.C.Boyce 2. Arum amoenum (Engl.) Dubovik 3. Arum apulum (Carano) P.C.Boyce 4. Arum balansanum R.R.Mill. 5. Arum besserianum Schott 6. Arum byzantinum Blume 7. Arum concinnatum Schott 8. Arum creticum Boiss. & Heldr. 9. Arum cylindraceum Gasp. 10. Arum cyrenaicum Hruby 11. Arum dioscoridis Sm. 12. Arum elongatum Steven 13. Arum euxinum R.R.Mill 14. Arum gallowayi sp. nov. ined. 15. Arum gratum Schott 16. Arum hainesii Agnew & Hadac ex H. Riedl 17. Arum hygrophilum Boiss. 18. Arum idaeum Coust. & Gandoger 19. Arum italicum Miller ssp. albispathum (Steven ex Ledeb.) Prime ssp. canariensis (Webb. & Berth.) P.C.Boyce 20. Arum jacquemontii Blume 21. Arum korolkowii Regel 22. Arum longispathum Reich. 23. Arum maculatum L. 24. Arum maurum (Braun-Blanq. & Maire) stat. nov. ined. 25. Arum megobrebi Lobin, M.Neumann, Bogner & P.C.Boyce 26. Arum melanopus Schott 27. Arum nigrum Schott 28. Arum orientale Bieb. 29. Arum palaestinum Boiss. Arum pictum L.f. = Gymnomesium pictum (L.f.) Schott 30. Arum purpureospathum P.C.Boyce 31. Arum rupicola Boiss. 32. Arum sintenisii (Engl.) P.C.Boyce In addition to the above, I am aware of five further novel species (but of which I have seen only images) that are in cultivation in the USA, the Netherlands & Poland. I am also now convinced that my treatment of the species A. rupicola and A. orientale were both too broad: at least A. conophalloides, Arum consobrinum Schott, and A. incomptum probably need to be resurrected. Regarding ‘refereeing’ – no-one does this; it is all down to general acceptance. Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of DAVID LEEDY Sent: Saturday, 28 January, 2012 2:37 AM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Dear Peter, The problem with writing a book is that you now become the expert on that subject, even when you want to go on to other things. I hope you bear with me (us). Your 1993 book, "The Genus Arum," lists 25 species. I read in the publication of Arum megobrebi (2007?) that there are now 29 species. I assume that numbers 26-28 were described in the 2006 revision of your book. Is there someplace, other than the 2006 revision, that I can find those descriptions? How many species are there now in 2011, what are they, and how can I find descriptions? Also, if I read your book correctly (ref. page 133), arum detruncatum, as shown in Vol. 30 - 2007 issue of AROIDEANA should have been labeled as arum rupicola, var. rupicola. Was that an error in AROIDEANA? Again, I apologize for my inability to read "scientific stuff," but aren't Bedalov and Kupfer suggesting that A. cylindraceum and A. sintensii are species in their 2006 article "Studies on the Genus Arum" in Vol. 29 of AROIDEANA? Also, in their species charts, they seem to have omitted both A. alpinum and A. lucanum. If they are of the A. alpinum = A. maculatum school, as described in your book, then I can understand why they may have omitted it. However, you have listed A. lucanum as being from Southern Italy, so one would think that it should have been included in their charts? So, just how many species are there now? What are they? Where can descriptions be found? And is a referee or umpire needed for taxonomists? Thank you. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus --- On Tue, 1/24/12, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: From: D. Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Tuesday, January 24, 2012, 9:44 AM Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: DAVID LEEDY <djleedy at sbcglobal.net> on 2014.03.14 at 13:05:42(22989) Hi Peter, It is I, again. In February of 2012, you emailed me a list of the 32 recognized species of Arum (see below). I see from the "uber list" that there are now 40 recognized species of Arum. Could/would you list the additional 8 species or a list of all 40 and, if possible, advise me as to where I might obtain a copy of the publication on the internet. Thank you very much. Dave HTML +More Might be a good idea to publish this list on Aroidl or on Facebook as I don't think I am the only Arum enthusiast in the world. From: Peter Boyce To: 'Discussion of aroids' Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2012 1:30 AM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hi David, Yes, there have been a few changes since 1993 and even since 2006. sintensii was ‘raised’ to spevcies in the 2006 paper; cylindraceum (which I treated as a nom. dub. in 1993) has been shown to be the same as A. alpinum and, as it was published earlier, now must be used. Arum lucanum is a syn. of A. cylindraceum (tackled in 2006) Regarding descriptions, sorry, but for most of those not in the book you have to go back to the original publication place. Of course this raises new problems in that most are not described in English. The full ‘official’ list for Arum is: 1. Arum alpinariae (K.Alpinar & R.R.Mill) P.C.Boyce 2. Arum amoenum (Engl.) Dubovik 3. Arum apulum (Carano) P.C.Boyce 4. Arum balansanum R.R.Mill. 5. Arum besserianum Schott 6. Arum byzantinum Blume 7. Arum concinnatum Schott 8. Arum creticum Boiss. & Heldr. 9. Arum cylindraceum Gasp. 10. Arum cyrenaicum Hruby 11. Arum dioscoridis Sm. 12. Arum elongatum Steven 13. Arum euxinum R.R.Mill 14. Arum gallowayi sp. nov. ined. 15. Arum gratum Schott 16. Arum hainesii Agnew & Hadac ex H. Riedl 17. Arum hygrophilum Boiss. 18. Arum idaeum Coust. & Gandoger 19. Arum italicum Miller ssp. albispathum (Steven ex Ledeb.) Prime ssp. canariensis (Webb. & Berth.) P.C.Boyce 20. Arum jacquemontii Blume 21. Arum korolkowii Regel 22. Arum longispathum Reich. 23. Arum maculatum L. 24. Arum maurum (Braun-Blanq. & Maire) stat. nov. ined. 25. Arum megobrebi Lobin, M.Neumann, Bogner & P.C.Boyce 26. Arum melanopus Schott 27. Arum nigrum Schott 28. Arum orientale Bieb. 29. Arum palaestinum Boiss. Arum pictum L.f. = Gymnomesium pictum (L.f.) Schott 30. Arum purpureospathum P.C.Boyce 31. Arum rupicola Boiss. 32. Arum sintenisii (Engl.) P.C.Boyce In addition to the above, I am aware of five further novel species (but of which I have seen only images) that are in cultivation in the USA, the Netherlands & Poland. I am also now convinced that my treatment of the species A. rupicola and A. orientale were both too broad: at least A. conophalloides, Arum consobrinum Schott, and A. incomptum probably need to be resurrected. Regarding ‘refereeing’ – no-one does this; it is all down to general acceptance. Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of DAVID LEEDY Sent: Saturday, 28 January, 2012 2:37 AM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Dear Peter, The problem with writing a book is that you now become the expert on that subject, even when you want to go on to other things. I hope you bear with me (us). Your 1993 book, "The Genus Arum," lists 25 species. I read in the publication of Arum megobrebi (2007?) that there are now 29 species. I assume that numbers 26-28 were described in the 2006 revision of your book. Is there someplace, other than the 2006 revision, that I can find those descriptions? How many species are there now in 2011, what are they, and how can I find descriptions? Also, if I read your book correctly (ref. page 133), arum detruncatum, as shown in Vol. 30 - 2007 issue of AROIDEANA should have been labeled as arum rupicola, var. rupicola. Was that an error in AROIDEANA? Again, I apologize for my inability to read "scientific stuff," but aren't Bedalov and Kupfer suggesting that A. cylindraceum and A. sintensii are species in their 2006 article "Studies on the Genus Arum" in Vol. 29 of AROIDEANA? Also, in their species charts, they seem to have omitted both A. alpinum and A. lucanum. If they are of the A. alpinum = A. maculatum school, as described in your book, then I can understand why they may have omitted it. However, you have listed A. lucanum as being from Southern Italy, so one would think that it should have been included in their charts? So, just how many species are there now? What are they? Where can descriptions be found? And is a referee or umpire needed for taxonomists? Thank you. David Leedy, Arum Fervidus Novus --- On Tue, 1/24/12, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: From: D. Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots To: "Discussion of aroids" Date: Tuesday, January 24, 2012, 9:44 AM Aw, shucks! I really was hoping. Ah, well. I just love that genus. I am watching to see how my collection of Arum survives now that I have moved to Kansas. I lost the purpureospathum. The Arum pictums are in pots, sitting in a cool window in my house, as they would never survive the cold here. The others seem to be okay, so far . . . No, I did not see the "Decade of Change" paper . . . where was that published? Happy days, Christopher On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Christopher, Probably never. The taxonomy and nomenclature will be kept up to date with periodic papers – did you get ‘the ‘Decade of Change’ paper – but that aside the new monograph will be someone else’s challenge! Very best as ever Peter From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto: href="http://us.mc827.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com">aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of D. Christopher Rogers Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 11:44 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots Hey, Peter! When are you going to publish a new, updated and expanded edition of your Arum book? Grins, Christopher On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 11:40 PM, Peter Boyce wrote: Hi Don, I grew a lot of Arum in pots in the past. You need to use deep straight-sided pots at least 12 inches, preferably 15 inches deep; the problem is that pots this deep tend to be very wide too, so you may have to shop around. Growing media for the Mediterranean species (such as those that you list) needs to have a good proportion of mineral soil and also should to be on the alkaline side of neutral (8.5 or thereabouts). I used to mix a proprietary peat-based soilless-potting medium with the same volume of good quality sieved topsoil. To every 10 gallons of this mix I would add a heaped 6 inch pot of 1/2 inch limestone chippings. Tubers need to be planted ca half way down the pot. I used to re-pot annually in late N Hemisphere summer (late August); by this time the tubers will be becoming active but there won't be much root growth. Plant and then water well and then don't water again until the shoots appear above soil. Arum are greedy plants and well-repay heavy fertilizing by producing larger tubers. I used to use a fertilizer branded for use on tomatoes. When actively growing I would fertilize on every watering and the manufacturers rate. Under glass Arum need a buoyant atmosphere and high light. Ventilate well on all but the very coldest days. The pots should also be given a fair bit of room between - too close together and the plants can become very etiolated and become prone to leaf fungus such as botrytis. Arum flower towards the late middle of their growing cycle. Some gardening books advocate easing back on water and ceasing fertilizer when the inflorescences appear. This is wrong. The plants still have a few weeks growing ability during flowering and it is at this time that nutrients from the leaves are absorbed by the tuber; curtailing the growing period can mean smaller tubers. I recommend that you keep the plants actively growing as long as possible to ensure a decent sized (or better still, more) tubers for the next year. Once it is clear that the plants really are dying back (most leaves yellow) stop fertilizing and reduce watering to just enough to stop the pot becoming completely dry. While the plants are dormant it is better to leave the tubers in the pot and not take them out. I experimented quite a lot of tubers of which I had an excess and can say that tubers removed from the soil and stored were always weaker than undisturbed tubers. It is also important that the resting pots do NOT ecome excessively dry. Despite the desiccated appearance of the Mediterranean countryside during summer digging down a few inches always reveals damp soil. Arum (indeed all Med. aroids) are always deep-buried in nature and certainly never become totally dry. It is also worth keeping the resting pots someplace not too hot and certainly not exposed to sun - again the soil in the wild is always cool at the level the tubers occur, no matter how parched the countryside. Hope this helps some Pete -----Original Message----- From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Don Martinson Sent: Friday, 20 January, 2012 10:23 AM To: aroid-l@gizmoworks.com Subject: [Aroid-l] Growing arums in pots I'd like to try growing some of the Arum species (A. dioscorides v. syriacum and A.creticum), but will have to do it in pots as I'm virtually certain they wouldn't be hardy in my climate. I have a cool greenhouse available in winter. Is there anyone else growing these (or similar) in pots that can give me some helpful hints (media, growing cycle, etc.)? Thanks, Don Martinson Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:llmen@wi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list href="http://us.mc827.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com">Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

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